The most important step in any exterior wood restoration or maintenance project is to prep the surface properly prior to staining. Armstrong Clark Wood Stains are quality formulated wood coatings with five generations worth of experience that will give your deck lasting beauty and protection.
To ensure you get the expected results from any of the Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stain products it is essential that the wood surface be cleaned and prepped prior to staining.
The exterior wood surface being refinished needs to be free of any dirt, grime, gray wood fibers, and any old deck stain or sealer. Even new wood needs to be cleaned to remove mill glaze and contaminants. For newer or grayed out wood we highly recommend using Restore-A-Deck Wood Cleaner. This two-step powder system is specially designed to clean and prepare wood for new stain.
For wood surfaces that have any old deck stains or sealers on them we recommend the Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper. This product is designed to break down and soften transparent and semi-transparent wood stains so they can be washed away.
This process of cleaning or stripping the wood will ensure that the Armstrong Clark Wood Stain will penetrate the wood and perform properly. Use the simple to follow step-by-step instructions for either RAD product for properly prepping the wood surface.
Applying a new coat of Armstrong Clark Stain (maintenance coat) over an old coat is made easy. Prior to applying a maintenance coat of any Armstrong Clark Stain it is still important to clean the wood surface. It is not necessary however to remove the old Armstrong Clark stain, simply clean the surface using the RAD Wood Cleaner and any old Armstrong Stain that remains will bond with the new stain coat.
Following either the RAD Cleaner or RAD Stain Stripper is step two of the system. The RAD step two is a Wood Brightener that will counteract the causticity of the cleaner or stripper and will correct the pH level of the wood making it more acidic. This opens the pours of the wood and allows it to accept as much new stain as possible.
Once the exterior wood surface is ready following the prepping instructions allow 1-2 days for the wood surface to dry. With proper prepping you can expect the most from your new Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stain. It will enhance the wood’s beauty and give you extended use for many years to come.
Ask Below for Questions on Prepping for Armstrong Clark Stains
Comments
As long as you prep by removing any Teak Oil, you can use the Armstrong. Strip it off with this:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Is this blue-gray stain a semi-trans or solid color.? To use the AC you will need to remove the old coating but how to remove the old coating depends on the type and brand it is.
1. in addition to cleaning - which I was planning with simply continue powerwashing - is stripper required? if so, is Restore -a - Deck the product of choice? what's the coverage per container of the powder?
Soft bristle car wash brush.
Yes you will need to remove the BM Arborcoat and to remove any sun damage. The AC should not be pump sprayed. Best to use an airless sprayer.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit and stain with the Armstrong Clark in on of the semi-transparen t colors.
Best to use both. Thanks!
What stain brand and type of stain are you trying to remove? Feel free to reply to your email with a picture.
!. Use the RAD while pressure washing.
2. There is a product called Wet and Forget that you can use after the stain dries. It should help.
1) should I use the RAD kit first and then pressure wash, or pressure wash the deck first and then use the RAD kit?
2) what can be done to prevent the mold so I don't have to repeat this process again next spring?
Thank you
1. Deck does not need to be sanded.
2. About 2 days.
1) Does the deck need to be re-sanded?
2) What is the proper sequence for RAD kit, pressure washing, and sanding (if necessary)?
3)How long should I wait after pressure wash/RAD kit/ sanding before staining the deck?
Thank you.
When in full sun, the semi-solid would be best. Next best would be the sem-trans.
Apply the Stripper and pressure wash off. Rinse and apply the brightener. Rinse this after 10 minutes.
Use the stain stripper for the prep.
Thank you.
If you cover plants and rinse well when done, you should be okay.
The Penofin does need to come off. If your method is not removing it completely, then use the Stripper.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit.
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Thanks
Use the RAD Stain Stripper for the prep.
Thanks
Needs to be stripped. Penofin is easily removed with the Restore A Deck Stripper and pressure washing. Brighten after.
Shipping depends on where you live. 2-5 days in the US. After preping, wait 2-3 days to stain.
Using the cleaner with pressure washing will result in a better appearance and prep for the wood.
The PDS says it creates a barrier for termites. This could also stop the stain from soaking into the wood grain. We would highly suggest a test area to make sure the AC is able to penetrated into the wood grain.
You cannot stain it right away. See this article about new wood:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Install and let sit for a few months. Prep with our Deck Cleaner, no need to sand. Stain the exposed wood only.
As long as the wood is dry when you apply and the temps are above 55, you should be okay.
Best to do the Brightener right after you are done with the Cleaner. Just 1 coat for new KDAT wood.
I read that only 1 coat of AC stain is recommended for KDAT wood, but read in AC Staining Instructions that if stain "penetrates within 30 minutes, another coat can be applied for added protection". Should I use 1 or 2 coats on new KDAT wood, in a full sun area?
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Try rising off the excess oil that did not penetrate with water. It should remove most. If you use rags as well, make sure to saturate any oil rags with water and lay flat to dry outdoors.
You cannot spot sand just those areas. If you sand the entire deck, then you would show rinse the deck down with water after to remove sand dust.
Thanks! -Rose
Fuzzies are related directly related to the oxidation of the wood cells. When the exposed wood oxidizes, the wood will start to turn white or gray. When you prep, you have to remove this layer of oxidized wood cells. This can lead to the fuzzy look you are referring to. Typically washing with higher pressure will reduce this. Many times you will not see this when stained as the stain colors will enhance the wood grain.
If you have splinters it would be best to use the Step 1 first, let dry and lightly buff the surface to remove the splinters with a sanding pad. Apply the Step 2 Brightener after and rinse well.
One kit covers about 750 sq feet or more for new wood.
1. Do you recommend sanding first, then applying the RAD wood cleaner? If so, how long do we wait after sanding until we can apply the wood cleaner? Note that we have a lot of "splinters" sticking out.
2. Do I only need 1 wood cleaner kit? I am assuming it depends on the size of the deck, but I have not seen specification on your website. Not sure if a kit will work on our 14x16 deck with stairs and railing.
Thanks!!
Armstrong is an exterior stain that comes in tinted colors to protect with UV. The Natural is the lightest tint and will darken the grain some. Take inconsideration that this is an oil based stain meant to be applied outdoors. It can be used indoors, but you will need ventilation for the oil smell to dissapate.
Yes you have to treat this as new wood. The semi-trans will give better UV protection over the transparents.
I have a Glulam beam, and two beam ends exposed to weather - is your transparent stain enough to protect them over the long term (repeated applications are expected over time)?
48 hours after prep and rain for the wood to dry.
Please see this about new wood:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
See here:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Thanks
Eric
It would be best to prep with the RAD Stripper/Bright ener kit for this. As do the colors, the Hardwood colors are on IPE wood. They will not look like that on PTP. We do have samples for you test test on our site.
You would have to remove and start over so it will show the proper color. Use the stain stripper we sell and pressure washing.
The Restore A Deck Stripper Kit for this. Stain with the AC after removal.
Wait 4-6 weeks for kiln dried wood and prep to remove the mill glaze with the RAD Kits. Just 1 coat for this.
Is this because you are assuming the new wood is >15% moisture content, or are there other reasons the new wood should be seasoned before staining?
In other words, if my new lumber is kiln dried and has moisture content below 15%, and then I "clean" it, am I good to go, or do I still need to let it sit for several months before staining?
There is no black colorant in the stain so that is not possible. it is most likely one of these things:
1. Rust stains is black in wood. Was any steel wool used?
2. Tanin stains from the wood itself.
3. You over sand/planed the wood to the point that it "burned" the wood.
The AC does not turn back so it has to be something else that is causing this. How did you prep and sand? What did you sand with?
David kraft
Prep by using the Restore Deck Stain Stripper. apply and pressure wash off. Apply the Restore Wood Brightener. You should get a few years on vertical wood in your area.
Thank you
Over sanding can reduce the stain's ability to penetrate into the wood grain. If you sand, use 60-80 grit paper. After the sanding, use the Restore A Deck Kits for final prep. This will remove any sand dust and allow the stain to penetrate better.
My question is: is sanding an acceptable way to prep the deck with your product? It is old and in bad shape. if so, are there any additional steps prior to staining?
Thanks-
Susan
Yes, no need to stain undersides.
Thanks!
Yes you need to wait and prep. See this about new decking and AC stains:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
You will need to use a pressure washer or heavy scrub and rinse. Pressure washing is easier and faster.
It would be best to remove all since it is uneven and start over. Using the Restore A Deck Stain Stripper will do this. Apply and pressure wash to remove. Neutralize with the Wood Brightener after. The transparent colors will have less protection from UV damage than the semi-transparen ts. Semi-solid colors will offer even more protection. We would suggest moving to a semi-transparen t or semi-solid.
Use our Restore A Deck kit for the prep. This will help to ensure a good surface for your new coating.
Rough cut wood or smooth wood? Rough sawn can be stained right away. If smooth wood, see here:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Steve
Yes you must remove the old stain first. Apply stripper with a pump sprayer then pressure wash off.
Since it is rough cut you can stain now. Make sure the wood is clean and free of any dirt.
New cedar shingles are typically "rough cut" and do not need to be prepped to remove mill glaze that is on new smooth decking. Only reason to prep would be to remove dirt or remove oxidation/grayi ng. If you do not have either then you can go ahead and stain right away.
Transparent colors will fade faster then a semi-transparent.
If you decide to paint later on then you should strip off the AC and brighten the wood.
If I used transparent--wh at are the pros and cons?
If at some point I wanted to paint over with a primer and paint how would I need to prep and with what?
Thank you,
Jean
Hard to say if there is an issue or not. I would not apply a coat now but wait and address the situation in the Spring.
We paid someone to stain our deck. It is great that they used your products but the deck was wet from rain on the day they applied. And it then rained again within 1-2 hours of the application. They came back to put another coat on; however there were puddles of water formed on the deck and wood appeared wet to me. I let them know I was concerned that the first coat did not cure properly. They assured me there was nothing to worry about.
Can you please advise about this?
Do you think we should put another coat on in the Spring?
Yes you should use the Stripper and the brightener for the prep. The Ipe Oil needs to be removed.
Do we need to use a stripper to remove the Ipe oil? What happens if we don't?
Thank you.
New wood and older wood will stain differently when using the AC. The newer wood will be lighter in color. Prep all wood with with a deck cleaner and wood brightener first.
Please see this about new wood:
www.armstrongclarkstain.com/.. ./
Just one coat.
AC is a penetrating and fully curing stain, which means it should not do this. Did you "back wipe" the stain? You should not and this could create potential issues with the curing.
Just the cleaner and brightener kit as long as you have removed all of the old paint.
2-do I use a cleaner and neutralizer???
Not sure what y next step is?
Its old cedar with new replacements mixed in…I sanded it all…..
The RAD kit should be used when reapplying the stain. It is not a stripper but a very effective cleaner. It can remove stain sometimes if "thin". I would go ahead and finish the prepping and apply a coat of the same to the deck.
Sorry but nothing will remove the grease stains completely out of the wood. It is in too deep. You can still clean and brighten the deck for regular prep then stain over the grease spots. It may blend a little better.
At our store in Bloomfield Hills, MI we do.
You would have to remove the water proofer first.
Use the Restore a Deck Kit and light pressure washing for your prep.
60-80 grit paper.
Prep with the Restore A Deck Kit in the top menu.
Rinse off the excess oil by flooding the deck with water then rinsing.
Apply the brightener as soon as you are done with the cleaning. No need to let it dry.
Yes you can.
Yes you will need to Stripper and pressure washing to remove. Use the brightener when done.
If I have to remove the stain which is very fresh will i have to use only power wash u recommend Stripper and then Wash
Sorry but you cannot lighten or tone down a color. You can remove it and start over.
Yesterday we applied a semi-solid stain to our house (exterior). The tone is too dark. I tried with sample earlier which were semi-transperan t . We used (80% red-wood 20% cedar) together. Is there a way to tone the shade down?
Yes you should.
Use the Restore A Deck Kit for the prep of the new wood.
You always need to stir before using.
G
You cannot get new wood to match old wood. They will be lighter in color not matter what.
Let season for a couple of months and prep first with the Restore A Deck Kit.
Wait a month to dry then prep with the Restore A Deck Kit.
Is the wood rough sawn? If so you can stain right away.
I just bought 5 gallons of the semi transpartent Cedar staing from AC. I have a brand Western Red cedar fence installed a week ago. How long to I have to wait to stain it with AC?
You must sand all the poly off first before proceeding with using a penetrating stain like AC.
A week or two should be fine.
You do not need the cleaner if you are stripping. Strip and brighten.
It will not remove the stamps on the mills. Use the cleaner and brightener for the prep. Not the stripper.
P.S. Stained piece of test wood looks great! Thanks!!
If you want to sand it would best to do it before the cleaning and brightening. You cannot clean to much.
I have a cedar deck and have stripped off an old solid stain. Should I sand and then clean and brighten or the opposite order?
Also, is it possible to clean and brighten too much? I just ordered your RAD kit but have previously cleaned with a Behr product and am not impressed with the result, the surface is blotchy, s so am thinking to clean again.
After removing the sanding of the Behr you should use the Gemini Restore Kit as prep. You can clean and reapply down the road without sanding.
Wait 2-3 months after install. Clean and brighten with the Restore A Deck before staining.
thanks
yes so it does not stand out. Brighten as well when done.
If using the same stain and color it should blend in.
You want to shoot for 95% removal. If using a similar color than it should blend some.
Thanks
Wait 12 months and apply the SR would be best and the easiest.
Use the Restore A Deck Stripper, light pressure washing, followed by the brightener to achieve a consistent prep for the AC stain.
Could you advise on which of your 2 colors would be preferable, and also how best to prep the wood after the Ipe oil treatment to best show the AC stain. I also plan to order samples of the 2 AC stains.
Many Thanks!
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