Armstrong stain offers a wide variety of color choices in an oil based semi-transparent penetrating formula. It should be noted that with any brand of wood stain, colors cannot be guaranteed. Colors and tones can vary depending on the wood type, the age of the wood, the condition of the wood, wood prep, and stain application.
Armstrong stain colors currently include Natural Tone, Cedar Tone, Redwood Tone, Cedar Semi, Sierra Redwood, Rustic Brown, Mountain Cedar, Sequoia, Woodland Brown, Oxford Brown, Mahogany, Amber, and Driftwood Gray.
Armstrong Clark Stain Color Help
As a general rule, the lighter the color, the more transparency it will have. This means that more of the wood’s natural grains will show through, which can have an influence on the final appearance. Darker colors will reflect more of the actual stain color but will still allow some of the wood grain to show through because it is a semi-transparent finish.
It is also worth mentioning that the darker the color the more resistant it is to UV fading. Darker colors have more pigment, which is what resists harmful UV rays. Lighter colors, will still provide adequate sun protection but not as much as the darker stain tones.
To be exactly sure how a certain Armstrong color will look on your wood surface, you can order a color sample. Apply the Armstrong color sample in an inconspicuous spot. Allow the stain to dry for several days to see the finished result. Order as many Armstrong color help samples as you would like. It is a good way to find the right color for your wood surface. There is nothing worse than staining a whole wood structure only to decide you do not care for the color.
With so many factors determining how a particular Armstrong color will look in its final appearance, it is wise to use the color help samples to find the tone you like. You should only need the Armstrong color help initially. Once the deck is stained you can keep it maintained with the same color unless you decide to change colors at some point.
Hi, I see that you do not recommend mixing Semi-solid and Semi-transparent. Does the same go for mixing Semi-tranparent & Transparent? I was thinking of mixing Rustic Brown and Natural.
Yes, you can do this.
did you discontinue the semi transparent amber stain?
We have not. Amber color is available on the order pages:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/ipe-stain-5-gallon
Will your semi transparent stains work on hardwood/red oak, or only the hardwood stains
Only use the hardwood colors for any hardwood types.
Hello, we just applied 2 coats of AC semi transparent (driftwood) over the last 2 days. Our deck was un stained, pressure treated pine that was installed 3 years ago. We did the entire Reatore A Deck prep and cleaning and some sanding (60 grit). There are some areas fo the deck floor that look like the stain didn’t take evenly or maybe from uneven application (brush used for application)? Would it hurt to do a 3rd light coat on those boards that seem to not have has much color to try and get a bit more evenness in color across the deck? Thanks!
If too much stain is applied, that can lead to improper curing and drying. We typically do not suggest it.
Thank you for the reply!
We stained the deck with cedar tone yesterday. I see the imperfections in the wood more clearly now. Can we apply a second coat but use one of the semi-transparent stains instead?
Sorry but no, it would have to be the same color and transparency. Also you would need to make sure you do not over apply.
There also appears to be almost a white film after drying. Can you tell me what that would be?
That is oxidation or furring from the cleaning that was not fully removed. Typically does not show when stained.
That picture is actually 1 day after staining with the cedar tone. Please let me know if there is something I can coat over it with. It appears to need a second coat but I am not sure if the transparent is going to help.
Try a test board with one more coat to see how it looks.
is amber a semi solid stain ?
Amber is semi-transparent only.
I’m sorry – please see my preious questions below. The color you have is Driftwood Gray, not Polar Blue – is it more blue or more gray?
The final color varies based on the wood type and the age of the wood. See photos here:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-photo-album
I have a few questions:
Can I use the semi-transparent stain on a wooden pool deck/will the chlorine damage it?
Is there a way to get a gray color?
I thought you sold a tintable stain, but cannot find it anywhere. Do you still sell a tintable?
Could I have a paint company add any color to the Polar Blue to make it more gray?
AC does not come in a tintable color. We do have a Driftwood Gray. No stain will be immune to chlorine and potential damage. You cannot custom-tint our pre-tinted stains.
Hello, just wanted to double check that the semi-transparent and semi-solid colors can be mixed together.
Also, what is the transparency of ‘Black Walnut’? Also mixable?
Thanks!
No, you should not mix semi-solids with semi-transparents. Black Walnut is a semi-transparent.
Ok, thanks.
Is this a new recommendation? Way down farther in the comments it was approved several times.
(application would be for siding not decking)
Thank you!
You can mix colors but it should be the same opacity. Mixing semi-solid colors with a less opaciyy color could potentially lead to issues with color consistency.
Ok, thanks, I appreciate the extra info!
Our house has t1-11 siding that was previously stained with A-C rustic brown semi-transparent stain. Is it possible to restain with one of your semi-solid stains? – Thanks in advance
Use this for prep and then you can:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Thanks! In your estimation, which one of the semi-solid stains is the closest match to “rustic brown”?
Espresso but it is darker. Woodland Brown is more red.
I am getting ready to stain a newly constructed pizza oven pavillion that has cedar wrappings around all of the main beams, false beams etc. The rough side of each cedar wrap is the exposed side to be stained. There is a big inconsistency in the cedar finishes on the wraps. I was trying to keep the original wood look but that is impossible with any stain. I ordered the Transparent natural tone sample hoping it wouldn’t change the original wood color much. I tried it on several scrap pieces and there is no consistency in the color of each treated piece. Now I’m panicked about what it will look like once I start staining. I attached a photo of all the different colors that appeared on various scrap pieces . The one really dark large piece was half stained with some leftover PPG stain (the lighter color) that I used on the underside Pine tongue and groove. The other photo is a sample of some unstained pieces. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
That is normal. Transparent and semi-transparent colors are going to ehance the natural color tones of your wood. The natural color of your wood varies, hence the difference when the stain is applied.
I live in the Seattle area in the Pacific Northwest. I stained my new cedar deck two years ago with AC semi-transparent Cedar stain. The following spring I prepped the year-old deck and stained again. This year the deck has darkened quite a bit, especially the rails. I think a lot of the darkening is due to the climate and the thin layer of moss that may have accumulated over the winter. What should I do to lighten and brighten the deck this year. Thanks.
Post some pics in comments.
I tried posting photos. Doesn’t seem to be working
Circle is original color, protected from elements by a flower pot
This will help if it is mildew:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/rad-guard-mildew-algae-cleaner-preventer
Thanks. I’ll give it a try
I was a little impatient in lightening my deck’s color and decided to power wash part of it. I was over-ambitious in sections and seem to removed the stain in places. Can I touch up the places where the stain has been removed. Or will I have to prep and restrain the whole area? Thanks
Prep and stain all. You cannot spot fix.
Just the cleaner and brightener, or will I have to use the stripper too?
Strip and brighen would be the easiest way to fix this. No need for the cleaner.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
How about the mildew-algae cleaner (see my original post and your reply)? Should I still treat the portion of the deck that I didn’t screw up with the power washer? I only power washed a small portion of the deck. Also, After the stripping and brightening , do I have to reapply a new coat of stain? Thanks for your help with all my questions
We would strip and brighten all so it is even. At this point, you have no choice but to restain after.
Three years ago I used a Semi-Transparent (Chestnut). I’m considering using a Semi-Solid this go round. Would I simply need to use the RAD Stripper/Brightener and then get to staining or would I need to do additional prep?
Do the Semi-Solids require multiple coats?
Thank you in advance!
Strip and Brighen for prep are correct. Typically one coat but sometimes two as it varies on wood age.
Can I mix the ac natural tone with the ac driftwood to get a lighter shade of driftwood
You can mix colors but the natural is not clear. It is a tinted color.
Can I mix your Armstrong natural tone with driftwood to get a lighter grey stain
My house is constructed with Sing Core manufactured pine logs. The previous homeowners stained it with Pittsburgh Ultra Advanced Stain & Sealant In One, Semi-Transparent 716 Cedar NaturalTone (see attached photo of can). It is an Acrylic Oil Formula (whatever that means). We are not big fans of the orange color. I’ve also included two photos of the house, including one of the neglected west side that desperately needs some attention. We would like to restain our house with a Semi-Solid, but are unsure how to prep for restaining and what results to expect with a color change. Will prepping set us up to use any color, or will the existing color present a problem? Will subsequent restaining eventually fix the color? I’m inclined to go with the Mountain Cedar, which looks like a yellow-leaning brown, but not sure how well it will go over the existing stain. My wife is more inclined to go with either the Espresso, which looks like a black-leaning brown, or the Oxford Brown, which looks like a gray-leaning brown. I’d rather the house not be so dark, except for the trim and window frames, so that’s why I’m inclined to go with the Mountain Cedar. Your thoughts?
You have to remove all the prior stain down to the bare wood when switching. This will entail stripping and sanding to get it all off. Once that is done, you can use any color that you like.
Thank you. I will also need matching caulk for the joints. How do find caulk to match the stain?
Just go to a paint store and find one that is close in color.
Hello, I used Deckwise Ipe Oil on a front porch Ipe deck and although I liked the initial color I’m not entirely impressed with the longevity due to a relatively quick transition to faded grey. For a different project, I’ve just sanded a rear PT pine deck to remove an old and peeling semi-solid coating and partially coated one board with some remaining Deckwise Ipe Oil. I like the Deckwise transparent stain color / oil richness on the PT pine although would prefer to use your product. What would you recommend for an Armstrong color that is similar to the Ipe Oil and what level of transparency would you recommend?? (Looking at your color card, the Natural Oak or Amber look the closest to the Ipe Oil on my PT decking. The card does not say how transparent the Amber is.) If helpful, we’re not high elevation, about five miles from ocean in Maine, and the deck receives sun for half the day. Thanks!
Use a semi-transparent color. Natural Oak would be closer to the brown color of the IPE Oil. Amber is more golden.
Great, thanks!
Trying to match a deck color with the Sequoia posts. Any suggestions?
Try Sequoia semi-solid or Sierra Redwood semi-transparent. Make sure to prep first.
If I decide to apply 2 coats on a newer pressure treated pine deck (~1.5 years old) that has never had a stain before, how long should I wait between coats?
Second coats are applied wet on wet. 20-60 minutes after the first coat.
Can you use the mahogany stain on a newer pressure-treated wood deck? If so would it be like a semi-solid or a semi-transparent?
See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
The Mahogany is a semi-transparent stain.
I ask because the mahogany stain is for hardwoods. Will it work the same on pressure treated? Will the pressure treated wood be darker, soak in more so to be more like a solid stain? Also my deck is five years old but has no stain on it. Do I treat it as a new deck?
No, the wood type does not dictate the transparency. It will be semi-transparent. Not new at this point.
Thank you!
Hi, I am planning to stain two unfinished pine adirondack chairs with AC semi-transparent stain. Before i had picked out the stain, I sanded one of the chairs with a medium and then fine sandpaper. I now know I shouldn’t sand them and need to let them weather, etc, before staining. The one chair that I sanded, should I sand it with rough sandpaper in an attempt to reverse what I did? Thanks!
You cannot reverse the sanding.
pressure treated wood
What is a good stain semi-solid color for redwood siding?
Any color of the semi-solids will work. If not sure, try some test samples here:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
Hi,
I’m working on a pergola project. To make it work structural, I needed to use Alaskan Yellow Cedar glue lambs for the posts and main beams. Everything else is Western Red Cedar. All are Re-Sawn. The woods are different colors and the AYC is harder and does not absorb the stain as well. I am thinking about using the Rustic Brown on the softer WRC and a 50/50 mix of the Rustic Brown and Oxford Brown on the AYC. Is there any issue mixing the two products?
Also, the AYC is dry and re-sawn. The WRC is not dry and is also re-sawn. Is there any need for any prep on either wood?
Thank You,
Dave 408.640.2615
No issues mixing. You have to weather and prep the wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I have a large outdoor shed built with T-111 Fir Siding. It has been stained with Benjamin Moore water based semi transparent stain 10 years ago. Really needs restaining…How should I prepare the siding for staining with AC semi Transparent Sierra Redwood stain?
You will have to remove the BM stain fully first. For help with this, post some pictures in the comments.
We are planning to use the transparent or semi-transparent stain on this 60 year old cedar porch which was originally painted but subsequently stripped, sanded, and treated with Olympic Maximum Transparent coating for several years. The edges, which are exposed to the elements due to wind, sun, etc. are worn and the boards are separating. The middle is in fairly good shape but also probably retains more old coating.
Do you recommend your Restore A Deck Stripper, sanding, or both? The boards have been sanded many times and will likely withstand only light sanding with a hand sander.
Thank you!
RAD Stripper with both additives: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper/restore-a-deck-stripper-additives
Sand after if needed to remove any stain that does not strip off. Brightener last.
Do you offer a solid color stain for older decks?
We do not but we do have semi-solid colors and those work great for older decks.
For a previously unstained PT deck (2 years old) do you still recommend restore-a-deck?
Yes, that is correct.
Can I use mineral spirits to remove excess stain after 24 hours? Used semi solid stain on pressure treated pine
Yes, make sure to saturate all oil rags in water and lay flat to dry outside.
We are installing new redwood vertical shiplap siding on a cabin in a couple of weeks. Rough, kiln dried. I’d like to use a stain and darken the redwood, but not lose all of the grain. Would you recommend one of the semi-transparent stains like rustic brown or chestnut to use on new redwood? Also, do you recommend pre-treating the backsides and ends before installation with the same stain selected for the front/exposed side, or do you recommend something else?
Yes, any semi-transparent color that you like will work for this. No need to pre-treat the backsides, just the exposed wood after install.
Do the hardwood stains offer as much UV protection as the semi-solid stains?
No, more pigment equals better UV protection.
I’m going to order 4 samples to try on our new Western red cedar deck. I’m thinking semi-transparent or Hardwood/IPE colors but need to know which not to order if I want to avoid any with an orange and/or red tint. Also, not the Driftwood.
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Mahogany will be red on Cedar and Amber more orange. Try Rustic Brown or Natural Oak instead.
what about chestnut and cedar? do they also appear red or orange on cedar? thanks.
Depends on the age of the wood. Older wood will be darker while new wood will be lighter.
My redwood deck was stained about 3 years ago with Redwood Tone, my store had none in stock. It has some areas that were scraped off to raw wood, lighter than the stained areas. I bought Sequoia, but it is a bit too red. I wouldnt mind it to be more transparent if that would not show too much contrast between the old stained wood and the wood where the stain has been rubbed off. I would like a more brown or golden color. Do I need to strip or can I just pressure wash deck?
Strip and brighten for prep is best here: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
I have semi solid stain on my cedar deck. It is another brand other than AC. How do I determine if I need to use the additives to the stripper? I want to order everything all together, Stain, stripper and brightner and if any additives (gel or Booster). I will be using a semi solid stain again.
Post some pictures of the deck and what brand is the current stain?
Here are a few current photos of my deck
Use both additives.
I forgot to tell you stain is either Sikkens or SuperDeck. And so I am using the booster and the gel on my deck, is that correct?
Yes, both with the stripper.
If I am using a semi-transparent this summer and need to stain it in 2-3 years with the semi-transparent stain, do I have to strip it before reapplying. Or just clean and brighten. And is it the same when reapplying the Semi-solid stain?
Clean and brighten for all AC stains.
Can I go from semi transparent to semi solid without stripping
Best would be to strip and brighten to ensure the new coating soaks into the wood fully.
Is it possible to get a color chart mailed to me? I would like to hold it up to my vinyl siding to see what looks
We do not send out color charts as they are not any different from what you see on the computer. Final colors will always vary as well based on wood type, age of the wood, application, and prep. This is why we offer a sample program as well.
Im building a new deck 12 x 14 with pressure treated pine. The deck is 8 ft above ground, I would like the bottom and top to both be stained. I have dried the wood for 2 months on the driveway thinking I could stain both sides then install but seems like you are recommending waiting a year before staining. Any advice on how to stain both sides if I build the deck then stain in place next summer.
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
It did not post correctly, sorry. The local store did not advise to wait and we took in a sample of the wood from the benches. So where can I go from here to correct the issue?
Sorry but as we said, it will not dry correctly unless you weather and prep the wood. It states on the container to let new wood weather and be prepped.
Actually Western Red Cedar is NOT supposed to be aged or weathered according to the lumber industry. Most woods, yes, but not WRC. It is to be treated right away.
They are 100% wrong as they also do not know how individual stain brands work to cure and dry. All stain brands including Armstrong Clark will suggest a waiting period and prep before staining on cedar and other wood types.
I purchased Western Red Cedar benches for a local park and stained “liberally” with the cedar tone stain as instructed by our local store. The color was still coming off to the touch 2 weeks later so we wiped them down with paint thinner to remove excess. Now, almost a week later from the wiping, the color still rubs off when wiped gently with a paper towel. I cannot install them like this! It is my Eagle Scout project and we would like to install before the weather turns (New England). Any advice on getting the color to set?
You cannot stain new wood like this. Has to weather and be prepped. See here for info: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
The local store did not advise to wait and we took in a sample of the wood from the benches. So where can I
I just applied your Mahogany IPE oil stain on my 25 year old mahogany deck (never stained, only water sealed which I power washed off and prepped). The color is very orange/red. I probably should have mixed the IPE dark walnut with mahogany before staining. Any harm in applying a second coat now with the darker color to achieve a deeper red brown color? I don’t mind the extra work, just don’t want to harm the wood.
The wood will not be able to take another coat. You can always prep and redo next year to change the color.
I stained my deck in 2 phases. The second phase was finished the following day- late morning.
There was no rain during the time between and the unstained portion of the deck remained clean and dry before being completed.
i used the semi solid woodland cedar. For some reason the portion that was done the second day looks more like a semi transparent. The stain used was all from the same 5 gallon container and stirred thoroughly both times. What could explain the difference?
I even put a second coat on the more transparent section but it didn’t make a huge difference.
I am so happy I found your website. I have an Exotic Brazilian Wood Deck. It was a beautiful rich luxurious color when we installed it, and remained so for many years. I would like to restore it to its original appearance. I like both your semi-transparent Chestnut and your Sierra Redwood shown on your website. I do like a light sheen or wet look. What do you recommend to restore it’s original luxurious color with a little sheen? Thank you, Vicki
You will need one of the three hardwood colors fro your wood type: Amber, Mahogany, or Black Walnut. The other colors will not work for hardwoods. AC stains all come in a non-shine (no gloss) formula. Adding any coating to a deck that has a sheen/gloss will result in peeling.
What do I do about a color stain that is too dark after one coat? Can I send my unopened stain back for another color?
You would have to strip and brighten to remove and start over. See here about returns: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/refund
My deck is about twenty years old and about 2400 square feet. I have been sanding it and the cedar turns a gray shade after a while. I want to see the grain. Will the deck return to the cedar color with a semi transparent cedar stain or am I better off using the driftwood color?
After sanding, restore the color with the Cleaner and Brightener Kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Once that is done you can use any color of AC that you like.
Do you have to use the 3 hardwood options only for a hardwood? Like Massaranduba? Or do your semi transparent stains work for hardwoods?
Yes, only the hardwood colors for your wood type.
Hi,
New mahogany decking –
Do you have a product that is basically like a clear coat?
Clear with no tint means it will gray naturally in months. It must be tinted for UV protection. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
See here about new wood as well: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I have a new cedar fence — 170 sq. feet. It’s rough sided and I want to stain & protect one side. How long should I wait before staining? Is there any prep I need to do before applying AC? i assume one gallon will do for 170 sq. feet for one coat, but on a new fence, does one typically use one coat or do I need two coats? Thanks.
If rough sawn wood you can stain now. About 1-2 gallons for the two coats applied wet on wet.
Thanks!
I am installing a tigerwood deck, but would like to mute the color to a silver grey, such as your drift wood stain. Would this work on such a boisterous color? Thanks
Sorry but no, that will not work for an exotic hardwood.
Thanks. Could I go the other way and deepen the color with Mahogany? Maybe end up with a nice Cabernet?
You can only use one of the 3 hardwood colors for this. Mahogany would work.
I’m considering using Natural Oak stain on cedar siding. I find I like the color better when thinned with mineral spirits. Comments?
Not a good idea as it will reduce the ability to protect your deck.