Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain 1 Gallon
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain 1 Gallon
Armstrong Clark Wood Deck Stain 1 Gallon

Armstrong Clark Stain 1 Gallon

4 Ratings 4 Reviews
$40.99
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Back to: Exterior Wood and Deck Stain

Armstrong-Clark's deck and siding wood stain makes use of conditioning oils that part from the drying oils in the formula. The nondrying oils penetrate into the wood and take the place of the wood's diminishing natural oils. This process revives and restores wood.

The drying oils stay on the wood surface and lock in the conditioning oils to produce a barrier that is dry to the touch. Armstrong's deck and siding wood stain contain vegetable oils in addition to transparent pigments, solvents, mildewcides and water repellents.

  • Application can be done in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first coat of stain penetrates within 30 minutes an additional coat may be applied for extra protection.
  • Applies easily by roller, brush, garden sprayer or airless sprayer. During spraying - going back over with a brush or roller will help give a more even appearance. After 24 hours any remaining puddles or glossy spots can be removed using a dry rag.
  • Older wood is reconditioned by deep penetrating nondrying oils.
  • Drying oils lock in the conditioning oils while pigments and water repellents lock out moisture and UV damage.
  • Armstrong wood stain is compliant with all environmental standards.
  • Does not contain any offensive odors.

Coverage Area

Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stain applies at 150-200 sq ft per gallon. Depending on wood porosity, actual coverage will vary.

Important

*We do not guarantee stain colors as they will vary widely depending on the wood type, age of wood, prepping of wood, and application. Small samples are available at top.

Armstrong Clark Wood Stain Color Chart

Reviews

Friday, 30 August 2019

The best!!Easy to use one single coat will protect your entire cedar deck

Luis

Monday, 03 June 2019

It lasted 5 YEARS on my deck. After stripping, brightening and sanding I applied 1 coat which looks like a natural redwood color. My redwood/cedar deck is 40 years old so it absorbed the stain instantly but looked great for many years. I like only needing to refinish my deck every 5 years. Before switching to Armstrong it was every 2-3 years - Great product!

David Bongo

Friday, 22 March 2019

Great stain!

JamesFemSI
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  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    andrea · 11/24/2019
    I had a professional painter apply my Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent stain . He applied the 2nd coat to the vertical boards underneath the deck on Friday ( finished about 12:30) and it rained Friday night. It was sunny and warm that afternoon. While it looks fine now, I am concerned about possible problems in several months. Thanks
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 11/25/2019
      You will be fine. It can take a rain withing 4-6 hours of applying.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dawn · 11/07/2019
    More info: I do not know what kind of wood it is, or when it was refinished last but it appears to have been a very long time. Should it be conditioned first? Thanks again.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dawn · 11/07/2019
    Would this be a good product for staining the exterior side of a front door? I live in Arizona but the door is under the eaves, behind a security door and only receives speckled light due to trees. If not, what would you recommend? I would Like a bit of color in the stain but not a solid color. Thank you.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ed · 10/02/2019
    We had a new fence installed about 18 months ago by our contractor. It was kiln-dried Western Red Cedar. He was the one who recommended Armstrong Clark. We picked Sierra Redwood. Stain went on the day after the fence was built. Now that I'm familiar with AC and the instructions, I know that he didn't follow the procedure of waiting and cleaning with RAD before staining.

    The staining was definitely splotchy. I'm ready to give it another stain, now that some time has passed. What are the steps to follow when re-staining to get best results? Thank you.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 10/02/2019
      To get this to stain evenly it would be best to strip it down and to the bare wood and start over with all the current stain removed: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper

      BTW, it looks like you used wood filler? Wood filler does not work with exterior stains and outside wood. That is why you have whitish spots in the nail holes.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Ed · 10/03/2019
        Thanks for the reply. OK, I will use RAD stripper. I know it says "eco-safe" on the packaging. I will cover the shrubs near the fence but will it be okay if the plants get in the groundwater?

        Yes, that is wood filler that my contractor used. I was aghast when I got home and saw all those white spots. I tried light hand sanding but they did not come off. After I use RAD stripper, if I sand with a power tool, do you think they will go away after re-staining?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 10/03/2019
          The stripper will not kill to root system of the plants. I doubt you will be able to remove the putty by sanding. You would have to dig it out somehow.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    John · 09/01/2019
    Hi, I have a new pine deck with cedar railings here in Wyoming a mile high in semi-arid climate where the wind sucks the moisture out of everything. The deck is located on the roof of a walk out level of out A frame type home. It's been sitting about year and probably could have been stained months ago due to the extremes it's been exposed to but I decided to wait until fall when the temperatures have dropped at finishes dry here extraordinarily quick. My concern is the clowns that replaced the roof under the deck and then built the deck did not apply the extra white rubber deck coating originally and had to take the deck apart to do so as we had requested . They of course got the the rubber on the pine surface. They made slight attempt to wipe it off but you can still see traces of the rubber on the pine, especially when wet. My wife suggested I sand it off but that's too much work for me to sand the entire deck for uniformity as I'm disabled and I'm guessing just sanding the damaged areas will stick out like a sore thumb. I would like to use the Armstrong semi solid stain to show some of the grain and was hoping multiple coasts in the damaged area to subdue any visual effect of the rubber. I believe the stain should penetrate these areas ok due to the extreme dryness of the wood but you don't know until you try. Any best temperature recommendation for this climate would help and a guess if my strategy has merit would be appreciated. thanks for your input in advance. John
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 09/02/2019
      You cannot add more than 1-2 coats of the semi-solid as then it will not be able to soak in. I also doubt it will hide the rubber. Best to remove that first otherwise it will not look good.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Anna · 08/26/2019
    Hello,
    Yesterday I stained our approx 5 yr old cedar deck with the transparent natural tone stain. I followed the directions carefully. The end result seems uneven and blotchy. I have attached two photos. I am thinking maybe I should try a second coat?

    It may be the wood is somewhat damaged as it has been kind of beat up. The deck has been stripped, lightly sanded, pressure washed and cleaned several times with various products in its relatively short life span due to us trying various stain and sealers on the the market only to find a year later the deck needs to be washed and stained again.

    We live in the pacific northwest and get sun beating down on the deck in summer causing it to grey and rain and some snow fall through spring.

    Any suggestions?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 08/27/2019
      Yes, apply another light coat. Might want to go a little richer in color as well. Try Amber.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Anna · 08/27/2019
        My husband corrected me: we have never used an actual stripper product. We have used deck washing products, clorox with water, brighteners and oxalic acid formulations. And it has been pressure washed with a heavy hand (hubby). I think either it needs a second coat or the wood isn't truly absorbing all the stain as it really needed to be completely stripped to remove other failed stain/sealer products instead of just cleaned. What do you think? Try a second coat this year and completely strip it next year and apply the armstrong clark product?

        I should mention we also washed and stained our cedar fence with your same product and it looks great.

        Thank you
        Anna
        Oregon
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 08/27/2019
          We would suggest adding another coat this year.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Anna · 08/27/2019
            Thank youyou for your help
            Sincerely,
            Anna
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jan Wallach · 08/25/2019
    Was wondering if you would know what semi solid or semi transparent stain would be close to Home Depots Behr California Rustic. I have this on the railing which is fine. I have sanded and removed this paint/stain from the floor as it was peeling. and would like to place the Armstrong Clark on the floor and steps of the Deck.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Joyce · 08/19/2019
    Where in Indiana can I buy Armstrong wood.stain
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 08/20/2019
      AC is not sold in any stores in Indiana. Shipping form our sites takes a couple of days on average.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    R Taylor · 07/15/2019
    I just stripped and brightened my pressure-treated deck with RAD products. Got rid of many-year-old semi-solid stain. Lots of elbow grease, but came out nice!

    I'm trying to decide how much semi-transparent oil based stain (rustic brown) to buy for ~175 sq ft. floor, with rails and a few steps. 2 gallons? 3?

    I'd go for a 5-gallon bucket if the shelf life is long enough so I could use leftover next time. What is the shelf life and proper storage method?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/15/2019
      2-3 gallons is correct. Closer to two but hard to say for sure. The shelf life of an opened pail will last about 12 months.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Elizabeth · 07/09/2019
    Can this stain be used on a deck that was previously stained with a non-oil based product?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/09/2019
      Only if you remove the previous coating first.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    skeena · 07/04/2019
    where can I buy this stain in Alberta, Canada
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/04/2019
      You cannot but we can ship to you from this website.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Sue G · 06/17/2019
    It seems all your articles are about decks and I have questions about my new (1 month old) rough sawn western red cedar pergola. (1) Can you help me calculate how many gallons Semi-Trans Cedar I will need for a 12'x12' pergola with 11- 2"x10" rafters, 14-2"x4" purlins and boxed pilars (Pictured attached). (2) only 1 coat is required but you talk about wet on wet for a 2nd coat. What is the extra protection gained with a 2nd coat and does the 2nd oat make the stain darker? (3) Since it is brand new pergola, do I still need to prep the wood with a cleaner and a brightener or can I just power wash & let dry before applying stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/17/2019
      Hello, for the amount of stain needed, please send total sq footage of wood to be stained. Only one coat for new wood. No need to prep if rough sawn wood.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    John · 06/16/2019
    I have a new deck using sienna treated wood. Looking to go darker and hide the knots. Can I use a semi-solid ?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Bob · 06/10/2019
    The posts and rails seemed to have come out better than deck. As it dried it appears I could use a 2nd coat on the deck floor. How long should I wait, and what prep will be needed? I thoroughly cleaned and stripped deck using the stripper and brightener and hand sanded as the pressure washer raised the grain.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/10/2019
      You should be able to do a light coat now. Make sure to not over apply.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Bob · 06/10/2019
        Unfortunately I ran out of stain, so I wouldn’t be doing a 2nd coat until I get some more
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Bob · 06/10/2019
    I have just a few post caps to do and ran out of stain, Will a sample be exact same as the gallons I had? I have mahogany wood and used your mahogany stain.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/10/2019
      A sample will not cover much sq footage.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Char Myron · 05/30/2019
    Would this be the best product for redoing Trex?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Robert · 05/28/2019
    I have a 15 year old Pau Lupe deck. Full sun in souther California. What do you recommend as a stain?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lisa · 05/26/2019
    Is the semi transparent stain ok to use on outdoor cedar furniture? It has never been stained before.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Mindy · 05/20/2019
    Hi,

    I built a deck with rough sawn cedar and used Thompson Water Sealant Cedar on it and it pulled REALLY orange. I plan to strip it and use something different. The color I would like to match is Miniwax Red Oak, but that's pulling black on the rough sawn wood. Which of your products do you recommend?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Alexis · 05/19/2019
    I have a cedar deck..... can I use the “natural tone “ transparent or “natural oak” semi-transparent stains or should I stay with a “cedar” stain?

    Also, do the semi-transparent stains need to be removed before re-coating?


    Thanks!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/20/2019
      You can use any color that you like. The semi-transparent will last longer from UV protection. All AC colors can be cleaned and recoated as needed.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Richard Green · 04/23/2019
    I previously painted my deck with Sherwin Williams Deckscapes advanced waterborne formula exterior deck stain. Can I use your Armstrong Clark semi solid stain over it?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 04/23/2019
      No. The SW will need to come off fully first.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jason · 04/17/2019
    Hi, I am planning on applying a semi solid stain tomorrow with a pad and brush. The instructions say to wipe any puddling after 24 hours. I know many people suggest to wipe as you go without other stains manufacturers. Is this not recommended?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 04/17/2019
      Do not wipe as you go with the AC. It could create issues with curing. Apply one coat. Wait 24 hours and if needed, wipe any access off then. Saturate any oily rags in water and lay flat to dry outside.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Rowley · 04/17/2019
    How thick is the stain? Is it thick enough to cover a rough surface without sanding.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 04/17/2019
      Ac is a penetrating stain. It does not cover or dry on top of the surface.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    David · 04/03/2019
    I am planning to stain a 2 year old pressure treated deck. What stain colour do you recommend to closely match the brown pressure treated colour, thanks
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jason · 03/13/2019
    I am planning to stain my deck using semi-transparent stain. It appears that 2 coats (wet on wet) is typically recommended. What does wet on wet really mean? as the deck is pretty large so by the time I am done the part that is started with will probably already be close to dry. Does this matter? How long is the drying time?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Anna Sharova · 10/12/2018
    We have a 20 (!!) year old deck that somehow survived a bad Deckover job. I rescued it from the failed coating before it could actually rot, stripped, planed, and sanded. It is in surprisingly decent shape. Second floor deck that gets a good bit of sun, with most of it having limited cover.

    What would you recommend in terms of stain? And what works best with fillers (like Dap plastic wood?) We're replacing some of the boards but trying to minimize and restore as much as possible. Also dead set on oil so Armstrong is at the very top of our options. We like the look of the grain and re-coating/maintenance is not an issue for us. Also debating between a lighter color for temperature and a darker color for drama. Any ideas are welcome!!! (Picture does not show complete restoration - we got rid of every spec of deckover in the end.)
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 10/13/2018
      FYI, wood filler will not work on exterior wood. It will not "stain" to blend with the deck stain and will look terrible. It also will not survive a cold Winter. In short, never us a wood filler.

      As for the stain, the AC will work well. Use a semi-transparent color.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Mark Hartman · 09/25/2018
    I have a 12-year-old ipe deck that I just finished stripping and neutralizing. I used Penofin stain last time, and though I believe I may have applied it too liberally, it also darkened the ipe considerably. This time around I want to avoid darkening the wood; just want to knock out the graying, close the grain and provide some UV protection. Is the transparent Natural Tone the best bet, applied with roller then almost immediately toweled off?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Kevin · 09/19/2018
    I stripped and belt sanded a nice old mahogany porch and purchased the AC transparent natural tone wanting the wood to show its true beauty. These are pictures when I applied to a couple of the steps on my porch. I must say for natural tone, this appears rather dark. To me that was ALOT of work to see these results hoping that natural tone would allow the wood to speak. Any suggestions?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 09/19/2018
      The AC Natural enhances the natural grain of the wood like a wet look and the color is based on your wood type. This is normal for all wood types. It is not possible to make it lighter and have UV protection from graying.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Blake · 09/16/2018
    I'm installing a new redwood deck and fence within the next few weeks. I live in Southern California and the deck will see sun only in the AM, fence will see sun all day. Should I leave the wood untreated for a few months and then prep with RAD and then stain. I like the look of the semi-trans cedar. Just want to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Nic H · 09/14/2018
    My cedar deck was built in Jan February March, people say to wait a year to stain it but it is already discolouring. I was planning on washing it with dish soap and bleach and staining before the winter. What are your thoughts?