Armstrong-Clark’s deck and siding wood stain makes use of conditioning oils that part from the drying oils in the formula. The nondrying oils penetrate into the wood and take the place of the wood’s diminishing natural oils. This process revives and restores wood.
The drying oils stay on the wood surface and lock in the conditioning oils to produce a barrier that is dry to the touch. Armstrong’s deck and siding wood stain contain vegetable oils in addition to transparent pigments, solvents, mildewcides and water repellents.
- Application can be done in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first coat of stain penetrates within 30 minutes an additional coat may be applied for extra protection.
- Applies easily by roller, brush, or airless sprayer. During spraying – going back over with a brush or roller will help give a more even appearance. After 24 hours any remaining puddles or glossy spots can be removed using a dry rag.
- Older wood is reconditioned by deep penetrating nondrying oils.
- Drying oils lock in the conditioning oils while pigments and water repellents lock out moisture and UV damage.
- Armstrong wood stain is compliant with all environmental standards.
- Does not contain any offensive odors.
Coverage Area
Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stain applies at 150-200 sq ft per gallon. Depending on wood porosity, actual coverage will vary.
Important
*We do not guarantee stain colors as they will vary widely depending on the wood type, age of wood, prepping of wood, and application. Small samples are available at top.
Available Colors
Transparent Cedar Tone, Transparent Natural Tone, Transparent Redwood Tone, Amber, Mahogany, Semi-Trans Black Walnut, Semi-Trans Cedar, Semi-Trans Chestnut, Semi-Trans Driftwood Gray, Semi-Trans Natural Oak, Semi-Trans Rustic Brown, Semi-Trans Sierra Redwood, Semi-Solid Espresso, Semi-Solid Mtn. Cedar, Semi-Solid Oxford, Semi-Solid Sequoia, Semi-Solid Woodland Brown
can i use this product on red grandis decks? and what cleaner can i use?
thank you.
Use the hardwood colors:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/ipe-stain-1-gallon
Prep with this kit:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Is there a readily available cleaner you recommend before applying your stain to cedar? Unfortunately, I did not think to order your cleaner before placing my order..
Thanks
We highly suggest our prep products over any local store bought products.
I am installing a (Western) cedar fence. I have used Amber on a hardwood front deck and like the color. Will this also work on cedar and does it have mold deterrents and UV absorbers like iron oxide in it? How well will it do in a very sunny spot (southern exposure, western sun in Montana which is dry to boot) ?
Yes, it works excellent for cedar fences. It has UV absorbers and mildewcides.
I got some chestnut stain on my vinyl siding – any input on the best way to remove the stain from the siding?
Try a graffiti remover like Goof Off. Test spot first to make sure there is no reaction with your siding.
We have an old (20+ years) cedar deck we are sanding with 80 grit. It looks really nice medium-light brown after sanding. Is it true that even the clear natural stain will make the wood go extremely dark brown? I’ve been trying to find examples online but can’t. We aren’t there so can’t do a test patch.
All our colors will enhance the natural color of your wood. The final color varies based on the tint you pick.
Try samples: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
We have a redwood sided home. We’ve used a brightener to clean the siding. We are very pleased with the look after brightening. Which clear TWP would work? Do we need to be concerned with UV protection or lack thereof when using a clear product?
I’ve been using AC amber on my ipe deck for several years now. I’d prefer a more natural look. Any suggestions. I understand that you shouldn’t use the natural stain on hardwoods. Thanks
Sorry but that is not possible to tonight’s or clear. The stain has to be tinted for UV protection and the Amber is the lightest tint for IPE wood.
will this work on port orford cedar?
Yes.
where is the color written on the can? I have an old can and cannot find the color
Sticker on the can or lid.
I just built a wood framed greenhouse that is framed with douglas fir. I want to stain all of the framing so it holds up against humidity and looks better. From what I’m reading it sounds like I should let it sit 3 – 4 months before applying the stain but the problem is I need to put the roof panels on and I want the stain to go on the rafters underneath the roof panels. The wood is not fully dried out. Is the consequence of applying the stain to damp wood simply that it won’t absorb fully and won’t offer as much protection? Since it will be protected from rain I only need slight protection and it’s mostly for aesthetics to match my darker reclaimed wood/glass doors that are already stained. I did a test with a sample and it seemed to look okay. I’m planning to use transparent cedar tone. Thank you!
You should be okay but this is not normally advised.
What’s the difference between stain and hardwood IPE stain?
Same stain but there are 3 colors designed for hardwoods. Amber, Mahogany, and Black Walnut. These colors can be used on other wood types as well. The other AC colors should never be used on hardwoods. Only the three.
On your website under Begin Project, Wood Staining Process, I. Pre-prep Process Testing, B.Testing for moisture content, it states: “Most stains require a moisture content of only 15% or 12% (or less) while Armstrong-Clark oil based wood stains can be applied to wood with up to 20%.” But in response to a question about a year old cedar deck that has never been stained and has a moisture meter that is approximately 14.5, and whether that is too high, Armstrong answered that “13% is about the highest.” I will be using a redwood semi-transparent Armstrong stain on both new and old redwood. On the new redwood, what is the highest moisture reading? Is it up to 20% as it says on your website, or is 13% about the highest, as stated in the answer to a customer?
Moisture % is not that important. Just let the older wood dry for 2 days after prep or rain and you will not have issues. No need to test the %.
New wood has to weather and be prepped. Moisture % is not the key to when you can stain new wood:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Thank you for your quick response. I did not mention in my original question that we will be staining 3 redwood fences, not decks. One fence was built recently. The other two were built a few years ago but were cleaned and brightened recently to remove as much of the grey as possible. We will be using your Sierra Redwood semi-transparent. Is your answer the same with regard to staining fences as opposed to staining decks? Thank you so much. Paula
Yes, it is when it comes to moisture %. Many times fence wood is rough-sawn, not smooth. If the wood is rough-sawn, then you do not need the weathering process for new wood.
So if moisture % does count with regard to fence wood, how low does the moisture % need to go to stain new wood, and to stain old wood that might get wet in the rains.
As we mentioned, moisture % is irrelevant for new smooth wood and in general is not needed to test for new or older wood. If new smooth wood, it is about porosity, not moisture % and it must weather and be prepped before staining. After any prep for new wood over 3 months or any older wood, just wait 2 days to stain. If it rains, wait another two days.
In general, ignore moisture % and it is not needed to test.
My cedar deck is now a year old and never had a finish on it. I have applied a cleaner and brightened it ready for the semi gloss stain. I have a moisture meater that is reading approx. 14.5 %. Is that to high for your stain?
13% is about the highest.
Did house about five years ago with your stain. Can I spray Thompson Water Seal on the stain after five years.
No, you cannot top coat over the AC stains.