Choosing Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains will ensure lasting beauty and protection for all your exterior wood surfaces. Backed by five generations of experience in oil-based coatings and cutting edge technology, Armstrong Clark Wood Stains will not only meet your wood protection needs but far exceed them.
- Measure all areas to be stained, including floors, railings, spindles, and steps, to determine total square footage accurately.
- Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many colors; actual results vary based on wood type, age, and porosity.
- Properly prepare and clean wood surfaces using RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper, then allow 1-2 days drying time before staining.
- Armstrong Clark Deck Stain can be applied with a roller, brush, stain pad, or sprayer, even in direct sunlight on hot days.
- Coverage is approximately 150-250 sq. ft. per gallon for the first coat; buy extra stain since it has a shelf life of 1-3 years.
Determine the square footage area of the surface you plan to stain. On decks be sure not only to measure the floor but also railings, spindles, steps and all areas that you are planning to stain. Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stains will cover approximately 150-200 sq. ft. per gallon depending on age and wood porosity.
The Armstrong Clark Staining Instructions
Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many different colors and tones. Keep in mind that the actual color results can vary depending on the type, age, condition, and porosity of the wood. Color samples are available if needed.
Prior to using any of the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains it is important to prepare the wood surface properly so the stain will perform as expected. See the RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper products for properly cleaning the wood surface prior to staining.
Allow the wood surface to dry 1-2 days after it has been cleaned and prepped. Be sure no rain is expected on the day of staining and for 3-4 hours after application so the stain can cure properly.
To apply Armstrong Clark Deck Stain you can use a roller, brush, stain pad, or airless sprayer. Mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. Unlike other stains, Armstrong Deck Stain can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first application of stain penetrates within 30 minutes another coat can be applied for added protection.
If applying by sprayer, use a roller or brush to go over the sprayed areas for a more even appearance. After 24 hours use a dry rag to remove any remaining puddles or glossy areas.
Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is environmentally friendly and does not contain an offensive odor. It is easy to apply and very user-friendly. Enhancing the appearance of your deck and giving it lasting protection is the best investment you can make and Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains makes it easy.
Need Help with Materials Needed? Ask Below with your sq footage.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-250 square feet per gallon for the first coat. Second will apply at 200-300 per gallon. This averages to about 100-125 sq. feet per gallon for 2 coats wet on wet. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
For a full walkthrough that covers surface prep, application, and drying times across different stain types, visit DeckStainHelp’s complete deck staining guide.
Is it a good or bad move too stain the tongue and groove profiles of Douglas fir? If stained would that cause a less tight fit compared to raw wood?
It doesn’t matter, or it doesn’t cause it to be a tighter fit. Armstrong Clark is a penetrating stain.
For sanded wood you guys recommend single coat?
My deck is sanded with 60g. And cleaned with brightner.
Going with semi transparent.
My question – what if some parts of deck drinks more pain? Still stick with single coat?
Yes, just one coat if you power sanded.
Hi am sanding my deck with 60g. It’s older deck but after sanding wood is looking bright. I did clean and applied brightner before sanding. I am planning to apply semi transparent Armstrong stain.
Question.
Do I need to apply brigtner after sanding? Is it must or nice to have?
Can I just blow off using blower and apply stain after sanding?
Yes, you need to brighten again after sanding. It is not a nice-to-have. Sanding closes the wood pores and the brightener opens them back up so the stain can penetrate — brightening before you sanded does not carry over.
The correct order is clean or strip first, then sand at 60-80 grit (never finer), then brighten, then stain. Blowing the dust off and staining directly will give you poor penetration.
Wait 48 hours after the brightener (or any rain) before you apply the stain, and apply one coat only on sanded wood.
Why doesn’t official guidance doesn’t mention this?
Is fuzz after water on sanded deck a real risk?
The staining instructions cover the standard prep sequence — clean or strip, brighten, then stain. Sanding is an optional extra step for raised grain, mill stamps, or stubborn coatings, so the “brighten again after sanding” step is not spelled out on that page. It still applies any time you sand.
You want the wood slightly rough, not smooth like a hardwood floor. Fuzz from wetting a sanded deck is not a real problem. If you sanded at 60-80 grit and not finer, you may get a little raised grain from the brightener, and most of it disappears once the stain goes on.
I stained our pine deck with your semi transparent stain about 3 years ago. Fading has definitely taken place and it’s due a restain. Do I need to strip the old stain off?
At 3 years out with noticeable fading, we would strip and brighten rather than just clean. Cleaning and brightening is only enough at 1-2 years when the old coat is still wearing evenly. Taking it back to bare wood with the RAD Stain Stripper and Brightener Kit will let the new coat penetrate evenly and avoid a blotchy finish.
Let the wood dry 48 hours after prep, then apply 1-2 coats wet on wet depending on how porous the boards are. Stay with the same semi-transparent opacity and you will not have any issues.
Please post some pics in the comments and we can advise from there.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Thanks for response. I’ll strip and brighten it. Hoping to stain soon. Temps in TN are in the 90s. I understand that your product can be applied in warm temps. Anything I should be aware of. I assume the 2nd coat would need to be applied sooner since may dry quicker?? Do you recommend waiting for cooler temps?
No need to wait for cooler weather. Armstrong Clark can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days without flash drying — that is one of the advantages of the formula.
The second coat is not on a timer. Apply the first coat, and if it absorbs within 30 minutes you can put a second coat on. If it is still sitting on the surface, it does not need one. After 24 hours, wipe any remaining puddles or glossy areas with a dry rag.
One thing to keep in mind: wait 48 hours after you strip and brighten before you stain, and make sure no rain is expected for 6–12 hours after application.
I have milled rough cut red oak and it has dried 9 months on a pole barn. Have used Sherwin-Williams Williams timber oil before and have liked it. What product of yours would you recommend? I have heard the SW timber oil isn’t the best on red oak.
Jim,
You can use any color that you like in our stain product line for this.
For a maintenance coat of the same AC semi transparent, I see that surface prep calls for RAD cleaner. Should the RAD brightener be used after the cleaner even for maintenance coats? Or is only the cleaner required? If using the brightener after the cleaner is not required, would it affect adherence / bonding one way or the other either positively or negatively?
Yes, always finish with the brightener after the cleaner, even on a maintenance coat. The cleaner is alkaline and the brightener neutralizes the wood and re-opens the pores. Skipping it leaves the surface pH too high, which reduces penetration and how well the stain bonds. It will not hurt adherence in any way — it helps it.
For a light maintenance coat with the base coat still largely intact, you can run the cleaner at half strength (about 2-3 oz per gallon of water) and then brighten as normal. Use full strength if the stain has worn significantly.
Wait 48 hours after prep (or any rain) before applying the stain, and stain within 2 weeks of prepping.
About Armstrong’s ‘reply’ to my questions, who mentions, “Best at 100 or below.”
Does this refer to a 100 surface or ambient temperature, e.g., wood temperature?
Sorry for the duplicate comment below, but when I try to use the reply button, it doesn’t seem to work.
Please advise.
Both.
Armstrong’s directions state that Armstrong Clark Stain can be applied in direct sunlight up to 110 degrees. However, under those conditions, the wood surface could reach about 130 degrees within minutes.
Is application still recommended if the wood surface reaches 130 degrees or higher?
Please advise.
Best at 100 or below.
We’ve had a bunch of rain, predicted and random. We have no used cleaning and brightener on the deck twice trying to remove the previous water based stain. I plan to rent a random orbital sander and finish with a 60 or 80 grit to remove the little bit of previous stain. My question is, after sanding, since we have cleaned and brightened twice already. Do we need to sand and then clean/brighten again before applying the semi transparent oil based stain? I was planning to use a shop vac and leaf blower to get all the particles out from sanding. I didn’t want to apply too many chemicals by cleaning/brightening for a 3rd time unless necessary. Thoughts?
Yes, clean and brighten after sanding to open up the wood pores so the stain can penetrate better.
I have a 4 yr old covered pressure treated pine porch that gets some sun during the day. We’re at 6K elevation in Montana so UV and weather is harsh. I just removed Valspar by sanding it off (I didn’t want to use stripper to avoid any streaks or splashes on concrete below or log walls). I used 100 grit and wish I’d read these comments earlier. I want to use either transparent Natural Tone or Semi Transparent Cedar. Should I do 1 coat or 2? Do 1 coat now and another in the spring?
Never sand finer than 60-80 grit. Redo with a rougher grit and then clean and brighten for final prep with this kit: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Only 1 coat of stain since you sanded.
Hello
Our mahogany porch was always done with cabots timber oil, first with tha real oil and last 3 or 4 times with the newer modified cabots. I saw a friends porch same wood with your product and it looks incredible!! I want to use your stain now but can we? its been almost 3 years since last cabot application ( I know we normally do every year!!) What do i need to do to prep or should we stay with cabot?
Post some pics in the comments for prep tips on removing the Cabot.
Do I need to use the cleaner the brightener on a new fence? Rough cut vertical cedar pickets, smooth hemlock fir top rail, pressure treated posts. It’s been weathering in place for 45 days. I’d like to use the semi-transparent cedar 101.
Thank you
If it has grayed or turned white, then yes, you need to prep it: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
what os hardwood decking? Is that product? Can I do one coat of a more colorful option and second coat hardwood stain on older pine and newer pine—-treated lumber
Does this product provide as much UV resistance as semi transparent?
Hardwood is a wood type. Pine is not a hardwood. Use the regular AC colors.
can colors be mixed? Thinking of mixing cedar semi transparent with redwood transparent as me wood is various ages
Yes.
I have stained my deck previously (2020) in the Woodland Brown semi-solid stain without a problem. I recently hired someone to restain the deck in the same color. After drying I have large areas where the stain looks an orange/rust color and other areas that look like the woodland brown color. Could improper mixing of the stain have caused this and how can I remediate the problem? Thanks Gail
Posibbly mixing could be the issue, or improper prep. To fix, remove all and start over. You cannot add more on top of current to fix.
Just for clarification the areas that are orange are distinct areas, not random. If it was improper prep wouldn’t it more random?
We would need to see pics to offer advice. You can add them in the comments.
What should I use for solid teak patio chairs? The charis are stripped from varnish and ready. I’m in Southern California.
Look at the Amber color: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/ipe-stain-1-gallon
we have had over a week of rain. Before it began I stripped my cedar deck , see below, and sanded a few spots that I must have spilled the original stain,(Defy Extreme) on and have just a little stubborn spots to be fully stripped. When we finally get dry, hopefully end of week, I plan to sand with 80 grit , apply brightener, and when dry (I hope!) stain with AC semi trans cedar.
The deck boards are 2X6 cedar, pretty clear, 15 years old at least, I bought used decking .
They have cleaned up well. Should I be looking to do 2 coats, wet on wet? If so, how long to wait between coats? Same day? And should I wipe down between coats and after final?
I believe I have a 5 day sunny window end of this week.
If you power sand, just do one coat. Only wipe off excess if it does not fully absorb after 60 minutes. Saturate any oily rags in water and lay them flat to dry outside.
Thank you. Stephen
How soon can i apply the stain to a newly installed deck made with treated wood? Wood was purchased early May
See here fore new wood tips.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Should I use the stripper or the cleaner on this deck?
Cleaner and then Brightener.
Thank you! Would either a semi-transparent or semi-solid stain work well, or do you recommend one over the other?
Either would work well!
I want to use Armstrong Clark Semi-Transparent Amber stain on a 6 month old Ipe outdoor dining set. Purchased in November 2025, and although I covered it over the winter, the springtime sun here in middle Tennessee has already bleached the wood, especially the horizontal surfaces, to a very pale gray-beige. I have tested the stain (one of your samples) by brushing it onto a leg under the table (in shade), which looks very good. Question: your stain directions provide lots of guidance on applying your products to decks; what’s different about using it for furniture? Your baseline instructions include this: “If the first application penetrates within 30 minutes, another coat can be applied for added protection.” How do I know if it has “penetrated”; is it dry to the touch? Any other guidance for furniture stainers like me? I’m ready
Only one coat for IPE wood. Never two. Make sure to prep to remove the oxidation and mill glaze with our Restore A Deck cleaner and Brightener kit.
I have fo 12 years been using WP 1500. I switched 2 years ago to Defy Extreeme looking for a easier to apply sealer. However this past winter we had more snow and ice in Maryland than usual and I found shoveling it off scraped off the coating which was on top. I did use a platic shovel but still looks terible and no longer sealed. Thinking to go back to an oil and read good things about Armstrong Clark.
I am confused about how to remove the Defy. I had thought to sand it off, but see comments about that making oil penetration hard. So do I strip deck with Restore a Deck, then sand what stays on, then use brightener? I built the deck 35 years ago. This red cedar decking I bought used 15 years ago and installed and cleaned then put TWP on it. It took forever to dry so I am Hoping the AC will dry faster an absorb in well.
Strip and brighten with the RAD products. Use both stripper additives as you over applied the Defy. When done, sand if needed to remove the rest.
If you had drying issues with TWP, then you over applied that as well. More stain is not better!
I am going to use AC semi transparent stain on my 500 square foot deck. I have pressure washed my deck. There is a small amount of previous stain remaining on my deck applied 10 or so years ago. My plan was to use a stripper to insure all remaining stain is removed. Then I am going to use a brightener shortly after. I also want sand my deck additionally, beyond the steps I have mentioned prior to apllying the stain. I purchased 5 gallon for this project. Let me know is sanding would be a worth while step.
Sanding is typically not needed unless you have splinters. If you sand, do not sand finer than 60-80 grit, and apply the brightener after sanding.
I have a 600 sq ft deck with cedar boards. The deck is at least 10 yrs old and the previous stain has been completely removed. The wood is in fairly good shape. I’d like to apply semi transparent driftwood stain to it. I did already sand with 100 grit however. Will that affect applying the stain? Also how many gallons do you recommend? 1 or 2 coats? Do I need to brighten with oxalic acid? Thank you
For final prep after sanding, clean and brighten with this: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Only one coat of the stain.
Hello,
I finished the stripper gel process but there are some small areas where the stripper would not work. Can I sand those areas before applying the Amber stain?
Do I need to brighten the deck before staining in areas where the gel stripper was not needed?
Thanks.
Pat
Yes, but be careful of spot sanding as the stain may take lighter in those areas. Brighten all wood after any sanding.
On regular pressure treated wood for decks how many coats would I need
Depends on the age of the wood, but typically, two coats are applied wet on wet.
Have a three-year old cedar deck. First year sanded, then stained with Cabot natural ATO semi-transparent. Second year sanded completely again, failed to use a brightener, and stained with ATO again. Stain faded badly within four months. Now looking to move to Armstrong cedar semi-transparent. Deck still has some faded ATO, and some areas where the stain is more intact. Just purchased RAD stripper/brightener. Do I need to do any sanding again, or should the RAD remove the ATO if the stripper is applied correctly? If sanding is needed, that step would be after stripping and before brightening, correct? Is any cleaner needed as part of the process? Want to ensure the surface is most prepared for the Armstrong. And if I don’t sand, will AC require two coats? Also, the fascia boards are rough side out cedar. Will RAD strip that as well? Thanks!
No, don’t sand as that reduces stain penetration. You want the wood slightly rough and porous. No need for the cleaner. Two coats applied wet on wet.
Thank you!
One additional question. If I’m using 2-3 gallons, should those be mixed together in a 5 gallon bucket prior to starting the staining process to ensure no differences in color?
Yes, that would help. The pigment can settle, so mix well first.
We live in Central Oregon and have a covered porch and an exposed deck both 10+ years. Our exposed grey cedar deck needs to be re-stained but the wood is still good (checked with a deck contractor). To make the porch and the deck have a uniform look, we plan to sand the entire area before using an Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent stain. Our question: Should we apply a brightener like Restor-A-Deck after sanding and before applying the semi-transparent stain OR should we just apply the stain directly to the sanded deck? If a brightener is recommended, can we use a different product like Benjamin Moore Woodluxe Brightener and Neutralizer? One other question, would you recommend applying one or two coats of semi-transparent stain?
If you sand, do not use a finer grit than 60-80. Clean and brighten after opening the wood grain and removing any sand dust. One coat of stain since you are power sanding is typical.
I saw a comment below, saying to not apply a second coat “because you sanded” during prep. I have an 18 month old pressure-treated pine deck, never been stained or treated. I’ve just sanded it then cleaned it. I have AC Semi-Solid stain (Expresso) and was planning to do two coats (for deepest possible color) using wet-on-wet method. But since I sanded, does that mean I should not apply two coats?
Just the one coat. AC is a penetrating stain; if you apply too much, it won’t fully soak in, which could cause curing issues. Sanding reduces the stain’s ability to penetrate by closing the wood’s pores.
Thanks. And just to clarify… I sanded with 80 grit paper, which I understand reduces wood pore clogging. Then afterwards I scrubbed the wood using a homemade 1:3 diluted bleach solution & dish soap as specified in AC’s product data sheet. I heard such cleaning not only removes sanding residue but somewhat “re-opens” the wood pores. Does this cleaning-after-sanding make it possible to apply two coats of semi-solid stain, wet-on-wet, if I want a darker final color? (I can test the second coat penetration on a not-noticeable area of the deck — but sure don’t want to mess up this project!) Thanks again.
No, only one coat. You can lightly clean and apply another coat next Spring.
Got it. Thanks again.
Can you move chairs and grills on deck while staining
It may damage the stain if you drag furniture around. Wheels from the grills may leave “dents” in the wood when moving if heavy.
Is it okay to go back the next day to reapply in some areas that seem not to get enough stain?
You can, but if you spot apply it, it probably will not blend. Also, do not overapply.
Existing stain on deck is Cutek. Should it be removed before applying Armstrong Clark Semi-Tranparent Redwood stain? Thanks.
Yes, use this kit while pressure washing:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Thank you for your response. Can you elaborate on prep? What happens if not aged for 12 months? Thank you, Tim
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
can i use armstrong clark semi-solid stain on doug fir t1-11 siding?
Yes, as long as you prep correctly and there is no prior coatings. If new wood, it needs to weather for 12 months and then cleaned.
I am applying the oil stain to my deck railings. Is it necessary to use a sealer?
No need and not possible to apply a sealer over a stain. It would peel if attempted.
I have a brand new 8ft Mahogany front door. The door will be under a front porch roof (no direct rain) with East exposure (Sunlight for a few hours in the morning). We want to darken the wood some from the original color. We don’t want to use any type of Urethane that could potentially peel. What product would you suggest?
AC in the Amber color: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/ipe-stain-1-gallon
I have a 30+ y.o. Pressure treated Doug for deck 400 sf. It looked like no one had ever stained it before, it was so dry and cracking. I just brushed one coat of semi-solid stain on. It took 5 gallons brushed on. (I used all the stain I could buy from the store.) Do I need to apply a second coat? If so, I don’t have another window without rain for a few days at least. How long can I wait for the second coat?
Add pics.
Done. See above.
Here are some pics. This is about 14-20 hours post application (took a number of hours to brush on). I see a couple of wet spots from the very end of the work, under the corner bench. That was one of the last parts I did.
Leave as is at this point. You can lightly wash off any dirt and apply another coat if needed in the Spring.
If I need to put a second coat on I need to let the store know so they can pull it in from another store location. Another question is how many gallons I will likely need for a second coat?
Deck is about 100’ above and 50’ back from the water’s edge on a (salt water) bay off Puget Sound.
I had a pressure treated pine deck installed 9 weeks ago. If a moisture meter says the deck boards are at 15% or below, do I still need to wait longer before staining w/ a semi-transparent stain?
3 or more months and then prep. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
It is not related to moisture % but porosity.
what’s your thoughts on this staining project. I’m quoting a project to retain the overhang and some beams, from the looks of the existing stain it looks like a water base would you recommend to use AC Stain
As long as you fully remove the current stain, you can use the AC stain. You cannot apply any other brand of penetrating stain over the current coating.
I have almost half of the 5-gallon bucket of semi-transparent cedar stain left from this year’s application on my deck. What is the best way to store the remaining stain to maintain the maximum quality of the stain for the longest period of time between uses? Does it help to wrap the original 5-gallon can in plastic, after firmly sealing the original lid?
Shelf life when opened is about 12 months. Store it where it will not freeze, and make sure it is sealed 100% from evaporation.
Most of my deck is pine in full sun most of the time. The wood has been installed for about 6 months. There is one walkway section that is fairly old wood but in the shade. I am considering solid versus semi-transparent for the new because I read solid lasts longer and also would probably match colors on both the new and old surfaces (not sure if that;’s true! And would it be an easier job if I used semi-transparent on the railings? What is your advice on the choices AC offers? Thank you!
AC does not come in a solid stain. Most people use the semi-transparent colors.
I just reapplied a coat of semi-transparent cedar stain on my cedar deck. It looks good, but prepping it with the cleaner and brightener was very labor intensive because of a significant layer of moss-and mildew. After a few weeks, I’d like to treat my deck to prevent and reduce the amount of moss and mildew that accumulate over the winter here in the Pacific Northwest coastal town where I live. I have Wet & Forget. but have tead that it is better a killing existing moss, rather than actually prrventing. it. What is AC’s experience with this product, and are there others that you recommend for better prevention of moss and mildew?
Use this: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/rad-guard-mildew-algae-cleaner-preventer
Hi! We are building a covered patio in the PNW with a combination of DF glulams, DF #1 exposed rafters, and cedar t&g ceiling. All kiln dried.
We are looking to stain as soon as possible. Is it ok to stain as the members are being installed? Or do we need to wait for “drying”?
Also, trying to decide between the transparent natural or transparent cedar. Will the cedar yellow? We don’t want yellowing.
Thank you!
You need to wait and prep. See here:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Colors vary based on your wood type and age. Best to test samples to see what you like.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
I sanded down a ipe deck last week. Looking to finish it this weekend. Are there any strong suggestion? Just brush it on and leave it correct? I plan to use a brush as it is Toungue and groove and the boards have some separation in them, will that work well?
Brush or stain pads are best.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/brushes-pads-sprayers
Apply one coat and leave on. You can wipe off any excess if needed a few hours later.
I’m staining an older deck (covered porch) here in Kitsap County in the PNW. I used a stripper followed by an all-in-one deck cleaner and brightener from behr. I also have done some sanding with 80 grit on the cedar boards after all that. I’m a bit worried about the weather and humidity. Does the air humidity matter? If there is rain in the forcast am I still ok should i wait for it to rain then a few days later stain?… =The transparent natural tone is pretty, is it ok for my deck here or should i be using a semi-transparent?
2 coats or one?
Can i use a lighter semi-transparent then like next year when adding another coat use a darker one?
Just one coat of stain since you sanded. The semi-transparent colors give better UV protection compared to the Transparent Tone colors. No rain for about 6-12 hours after application.
How would the transparent ones age in comparison? It would be awesome to be able to see examples after a year or so. Thanks! Debating on color at this point.
Transparent colors typically require recoating every 1-2 years, while semi-transparent colors are recommended for recoating every 2-3 years for horizontal surfaces.
Is there a concern for humidity levels. The Humidity here is high rn so I can find a window with no rain in that time but not much of one with humidty that isn’t high. what effect will that have?
No, it should not.
Do I need to apply a sealer after using this stain?
No need, and that is not possible to apply a sealer over a wood deck stain. It would peel if you tried this.
How many gallons do we need for aged wood siding of a house (semi-stain) that is 2000sqft?
Is that the square footage of all the siding or the size of the house? We need the total square footage of all siding that will be stained.
It is all the siding of the house
15-20 gallons for the 2 coats applied wet on wet for 2000 sq feet of siding.
Why 2 coats? And do you put the second coat after 1st coat dries?
You mentioned it was aged wood, so you will need the two coats. It can be applied wet on wet or wet on dry.
Understood. For 1 x 5-gal, the website provides an option for rush shipping (2-3 day) pricing. However, when the amount goes to 2 x 5-gal, the website does not offer rush shipping pricing. Could you please explain why this is?
Weight issue, it cannot figure out the correct price when two are added at the same time. You would have to place two separate orders to use the rush option price.
We have a new cedar deck that was installed in June and livein the Mdwest and our deck is in full sun. We like the look of wet cedar and do not want a heavy colored stain. What should we use on our deck? Cleaning and coating?
Prep with this:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Try Amber stain color.
We have a deck that faces the east we have power cleaned and sanded but it keeps peeling in a couple of months, can you please give us some ideas on what is wrong the deck is about twenty five years old?
The issue is most likley related to the stain brand and type of stain you are using. Armstrong Clark does not peel when prepped and applied correctly. Make sure to remove all prior coatings first, and don’t sand finer than 60-80 grit. Too fine and it cannot penetrate properly
I have a set of stairs with a small leading deck and railings that are 35 years old. I am looking to try to save them as long as I can and I can’t afford to replace them. They are still sturdy but I want to provide some protection so they last longer. In the past, I have used Thomson water seal but your wood stain was recommended as well as TWP 100 series. I’m trying to decide if either is worth applying and which would be the best and easiest to apply. TWP 100 only recommends wet on wet application but see yours can be wet on wet or wet on dry. Thank you!
AC stains are much better than the Thompons Water Seal, which does nothing for UV protection. Make sure to prep well first.
What can you do if it unexpectedly rains
Wait until it stops raining, the rainwater, dries, and then assess if the stain was compromised or not.
What type of solvent do I use for clean up with oil based stain?
Mineral spirits.