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RAD Stain Stripper/Brightener Kit

1 Rating 1 Shopper Review
$64.99
free shipping with ground services
Back to: Restore A Deck Products

1 RAD Stripper and 1 RAD Brightener

Coverage: 500-1000 sq. feet per kit. Each Kit Makes 5 Gallons of Stain Stripper and 5 Gallons of Wood Brightener

Restore-A-Deck Stain Stripper is the only concentrated powdered wood stain stripper that is specifically designed to be injected through a pressure washer. RAD Stripper may also be applied using a garden type sprayer.

The R-A-D Stain Remover, when injected using a pressure washer, can remove penetrating transparent stains as well as semi-transparent wood coatings.

When RAD Wood Stain Stripper is applied using a pump-up sprayer, it is twice as potent and able to remove most transparent, semi-transparent and even semi-solid wood stains. It is also excellent for getting rid of failed semi-transparent acrylic stains. Coverage rates when applied with a pump sprayer are 100-200 sq. ft per gallon.

After using Restore-A-Deck Injectable Stain Stripper, the wood needs to be neutralized with the RAD Step 2 Brightener.

ADVANTAGES

  • #1 Rated Wood Deck Stain Stripper
  • Removes most clear, transparent, semi-transparent, and semi-solid coatings.
  • Powdered formula makes 5 liquid gallons when mixed
  • Extremely cost effective. When mixed, the cost is less than $7 a gallon.
  • Eco-Safe formulas
  • Preps previously stained wood and decks
  • Safe to use on all exterior wood surfaces, not just decks
  • Applied with pump sprayer for max results or injected through pressure washer for easier to remove finishes
  • Can be mixed at a stronger ratio for difficult to remove finishes. Max would be 3 gallons of water to one container of Restore-A-Deck Stripper

Coverage: 500-1000 sq.feet per container.

*Will not remove solid color stains, paints, or polyurethanes.

Reviews

Sunday, 25 June 2017

Use the Restore A Deck Stripper kit for removal of old transparent and semi-transparent coatings.

Armstrong

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  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    CSB · 07/18/2019
    We recently added an unfinished cedar deck on to our existing covered, cedar toned porch. I’d like to do the entire deck and porch in A-C but I am guessing I would be best to strip and brighten the existing covered porch first. A few questions:

    1: if I splash the stripper or brightener on the new unfinished wood, what will happen?

    2: will the stripper or brightener hurt any of the painted railings if it comes in contact?

    3: do I need to do anymore than use a cleaner on the new deck? It is brand new, but it will take water so I am assuming it’s ready for stain.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    THSwampy · 07/02/2019
    I am looking to strip a failing stain from a mahogany porch deck with painted trim and skirting underneath. Will the Restore-A-Deck products dissolve or damage the paint on painted surfaces if they splash on them? Any suggestions for dealing with this?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/02/2019
      No, it should not remove the solid paint unless the paint is peeling or failing already.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Bill Vardoulis · 06/24/2019
    I live in Atlanta, GA. I just replaced a 48' by 12 ' deck. It is Pressure treated lumber from Lowe's. The railings are PT lumber also but with Powder Coated Aluminium Balusters. It is approx 1 month old. I am going to wait 2 more months before staining and I am going to use AC Semi Transparent. When I prep the deck I plan on Using RAD Cleaner and RAD Brightener. Will these products damage or affect the Powder coated aluminum balusters? Or should I not worry.

    Also are the RAD products Bleach based or Oxygen based?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/24/2019
      Always test spot first but it should not harm the spindles. Oxygen-based for cleaner. Citric-based for brightener.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    frank · 06/24/2019
    does this product work on removing mahogany color semi-transparent stain from Cumaru deck? the stain is from your company
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/24/2019
      Yes. Works great. Brightener after.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    ST · 06/18/2019
    Can you tell me what the shelf life of the stain is in an un-opened can?

    what is the determining factor to choose restore-a-deck stripper over cleaner ? We will be pressure washing the cedar deck to remove old semi-transparent water based stain
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/19/2019
      Unopened and stored correctly, the stain is good for several years. If you are removing a previous stain, you will need a stain stripper. Feel free to reply back with a picture of your current condition to help determine the best way to strip.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    R · 06/12/2019
    I have a cedar pergola approx. 22x24. It has turned grey and now we plan to stain it. Do we need to clean it before with product or is a good water wash fine?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Janet · 06/03/2019
    Will the RAD stripper remove Superdeck semi-transparent?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Brent · 06/03/2019
    Will this be effective to remove boiled linseed oil?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      jackie · 06/03/2019
      It did remove linseed oil but I had to scrub pretty hard to get it off. Maybe you don't have as much on as I did.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Armstrong · 06/03/2019
        Pressure wash after applying the stripper.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/03/2019
      Yes, it should work with this.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Craig Rice · 03/30/2019
    I previously stained cedar siding which had been sanded to bare wood with Cabot Preservative Wood Finish. After a few years, areas exposed to direct sunlight have heavily peeled back to bare wood. I am considering re-sanding the entire surface and applying an A-C semi-transparent stain. Is it better to use RAD stripper (and Brightener) vs. re-sanding? I am concerned about the stripper potentially damaging the custom powder-coated window frames & trellis, glass and colored concrete (see photos). Secondly, what is the difference between RAD stains (which are referenced on the RAD Stripper instructions) and A-C stains? (I have previously used A-C stain on an Ipe deck and benches)
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 03/30/2019
      Strip and brighten for the prep is best. It should not harm the surrounding areas if you are rinsing well when applying and when done. RAD is a water-based stain. AC is oil-based.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    JAMES CIGALINA · 03/09/2019
    if i use the stripper and brightener, but do not stain within 2 weeks can i still stain or should i strip and brighten again?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 03/10/2019
      You should be fine as long as you stain within two weeks of prep. Any longer and you may need to lightly wash again.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        JAMES CIGALINA · 03/10/2019
        I'm re-doing some outdoor wood furniture that is some type of hardwood, i'm using the IPE Black Walnut. Unfortunately when i first did the strip/brightener there were some hidden poly that showed up, the other had peeled away (pretty old furniture) but wood is in wonderful shape. So I sanded away all poly with 60 then 80 but it took awhile to get it right so it's been 3-4 weeks since i did the strip/brightener there looks to be some stain streaking I didn't get off the first time will it be ok to do the process again? Thanks for all your help.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Pat Westmore · 09/16/2018
    Have an older log cabin that needs staining. Don't know what Products were used previously. Where do I begin?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Melinda · 07/25/2018
    I guess I must have misunderstood. I hope that it will be ok.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Melinda Harder · 07/25/2018
    I posted earlier but I don't think my comment showed up. If this is repetitive then I apologize. I bought the complete kit and used it as instructed. I think the products are top notch and I found them great to work with. My only negative comment would be that the rustic brown that I used on my large cedar deck does not look brown at all. It is quite orange. I realize this is not the products fault at all but I am curious as to why this would happen. I applied it to a damp surface after stripping and brightening. I didn't see any specialized instructions for cedar, but after other research I am wondering if this is tannin bleed?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/25/2018
      You applied the Armstrong stain to a damp surface? You cannot do this. It has to dry for 48 hours after the prep.

      Your stain will not cure and dry properly when applied to a damp surface.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Melinda · 07/25/2018
        I talked to someone on the phone at your number who said that if you do all three steps then it can be applied to damp wood and will actually be absorbed better the surface is damp. It dried very well and is repelling moisture very well too 3 days after.
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 07/25/2018
          Not for the AC stain but the RAD Wood stain. The color issue is due to lack of absorption. Good that it dried okay.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Brent Sinclair · 07/23/2018
    Our condo association has decided to stain our large outside decks with Armstrong IPE stain and we will need so strip off the old stain. Do we need the brightener as well?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/24/2018
      Yes. You always have to neutralize a stain stripper with a wood brightener.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jackie · 07/11/2018
    can you keep already mixed stain remover?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Steve · 07/09/2018
    Hi, cedar siding that was finished with some type of poly - satin to semi-gloss finish. Sun getting to it. I tried a spar urethane (Second panel). Shade sides are OK. A stripper takes off some of the finish but a lot of work. May require sanding as well. Any thoughts on how best to proceed and your recommended products? Thanks, Stephen
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 07/10/2018
      You will need to sand to remove this type of coating. Once removed, you will be able to use the AC in any color you would like.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lee · 06/20/2018
    I am refinishing my small deck myself, and will hire someone to do a large deck at the end of the season. Will the leftover stripper and brightener powder keep for a few months between jobs? It is very humid in our barn and garage. Should I store leftovers in a lidded bucket?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/20/2018
      Store inside where there is no humidity and you will be good.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Laura · 06/04/2018
    Replaced decayed horizontal deck boards with pine, but kept old stained vertical boards and rails. Sanding is removing "most" products from the rails. Do I need to use brightener or stripper? Or both? Over all or old wood only? Do you recommend the semi-solid stain then for more even coverage, so both old and new match? Will the semi-transparent look splotchy? I'm in Indiana, so have the range from 100* hard sun to -5* with ice. Thank you!
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Gracie · 05/16/2018
    I bought my house five years ago which has a covered front porch with groove and tongue mahogany flooring. I do not know what stain was previously used. There is greying on the flooring and I am only now restaining the porch. Can you tell me what the best process would be to restain my porch? Should I use the RAD stripper and brightener and then follow with a hardwood stain? Thank you!
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Cindy · 05/10/2018
    Help!
    I have a large deck and structure (pressure treated pine), pine planter boxes (12X4 - 24" high) and landscape timbers, all previously treated with Behr Premium SemiTransparent Oil based stain. All are 5 years old, initally stained 4.5 years ago. Deck surface was restained 2 years ago. I have currently totally sanded the deck surface removing all stain, and sanded all other surfaces well (including posts, stair risers and timbers - but not down to the wood - prior stain remains). Not happy with the Behr (peeling, fading) What process must I still go through for prepping? (Tired - so tired) I will happily put in the effort to achieve a good result with some longevity. My deck is in a sunny location, until oak leaves leaf out, then total shade all summer. No mold / mildew. Oak sap during the summer which requires constant hosing. I am in Southern Wisconsin. Thank you!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Cindy · 05/10/2018
      After sanding / stripping; cleaner? Brightener?
      Thank you!
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Armstrong · 05/10/2018
        After removing all, lightly clean and brighten for final prep.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/10/2018
      Hello, you must remove all of the Behr. Continue to sand and or strip to remove the rest.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dennis · 05/08/2018
    I have cedar benches that have a water based stain applied. This has failed and is flaking off. Can I remove the flaking stain then use your oil based stain over the remaining water based stained wood?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/08/2018
      Hi Dennis, you have to remove all of the water based stain to be able to switch brands to the AC.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    TBub · 05/05/2018
    How best to prep new mahogoney decking before applying oil base stain
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Lezlie · 04/30/2018
    Just used Restore-A-Deck yesterday on our non-stained deck that was installed last spring. The plan was to do the brightener tonight. However, I noticed some furring on the wood. Do I need to sand, and if I do, should I sand then brighten, or brighten then sand?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Administrator · 04/30/2018
      If you need to sand, sand first and then brighten the wood. FYI, typically when you apply the stain it will darken the wood based on the color you choose and the "furring" will not show.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Lezlie · 04/30/2018
        OK, I just realized that I made a really dumb move and prepped with the stripper/brightener kit instead of the cleaner/brightener kit. Do I need to go back and use the cleaner, or am I ok to stain?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Administrator · 04/30/2018
          That is most likely why it furred. Should okay to stain though.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            Lezlie · 04/30/2018
            Ugh. Hope it wasn't a $12K mistake.

            Thanks!
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Lezlie · 04/30/2018
        Thanks! We'll test a spot first and see how it goes.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Sandra Lewis · 09/28/2017
    I have a 5 year old tigerwood deck. About 3 years ago a brown stain was put on it. I want to restore it to the natural
    tigerwood color. Will the Restore-a-Deck work or do you have any other suggestions?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Armstrong · 05/19/2017
    jcpct3:
    Can someone explain how injecting the stripper through the power washer can be effective...seems like the water under pressure would move both the stripper and cleaning water at high speed, so how can injecting the stripper be any more effective than just power washing it?

    Pump spraying to apply the stripper and pressure washing to remove is the most effective way. If it is an easy strip, you can inject on instead of pump sprayer.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Armstrong · 05/19/2017
    jcpct3:
    Can I use the Brightner immediately following stripping, or is there a time delay between stripping and application of Brightner?

    right after stripping is done.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    jcpct · 05/19/2017
    Can someone explain how injecting the stripper through the power washer can be effective...seems like the water under pressure would move both the stripper and cleaning water at high speed, so how can injecting the stripper be any more effective than just power washing it?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    jcpct · 05/19/2017
    Can I use the Brightner immediately following stripping, or is there a time delay between stripping and application of Brightner?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Armstrong · 04/30/2017
    annett:
    I have a painted redwood deck in bright sun during the day. It was painted right before we purchased about two years ago and is already chipping and looking really bad. I am considering sanding the paint off and staining it with woodland brown, that i used for our fence already, instead considering the heat and cold /snow in the winter that it might be easier to maintain and look better. Is that realistic and what would be my steps?

    The only way to remove the paint is to sand. After sanding, clean and brighten all the wood. The paint must be fully removed before using the Armstrong Clark.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    annett · 04/30/2017
    I have a painted redwood deck in bright sun during the day. It was painted right before we purchased about two years ago and is already chipping and looking really bad. I am considering sanding the paint off and staining it with woodland brown, that i used for our fence already, instead considering the heat and cold /snow in the winter that it might be easier to maintain and look better. Is that realistic and what would be my steps?