Armstrong Clark is a penetrating oil based stain that will soak deep into the wood grain offering protection from UV graying and water. The advantages to a penetrating deck stain is that they will not peel but rather fade over the years. The key though is proper prep before applying your AC especially if your wood is new.
- New smooth wood should not be stained immediately after install; wait 3-4 months for transparent or semi-transparent colors.
- Use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit to prep wood before applying Armstrong Clark Stain.
- Rough Sawn cut wood can be stained right after install, as long as the wood is clean and dry.
- Armstrong Clark covers 150-300 square feet per gallon on new wood; hardwood decking spreads farther at 300-400 square feet.
- Maintenance coats are needed every 2-3 years; Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year opened and 3 years unopened.
New “smooth” wood should not be stained right away with Armstrong Clark. A few things need to happen first:
- The wood should dry out in the climate
- Exposed layers of wood cells should oxidize slightly
- Mill glaze needs to be removed
- Prep after waiting will remove both oxidation and mill glaze
New Decks and Armstrong Clark Stain Tips
The best advice is to not stain your new smooth wood too soon after install but follow these steps:
- Install wood and let sit outside for 3-4 months or more if using a transparent or semi-transparent color. If using a semi-solid color, you should wait 12 months.
- Once the wood has been exposed, use the Restore A Deck Cleaner and Brightener Kit for prep.
- Let the wood dry for 2 or more days after prep.
- Apply 1 coat of the Armstrong Clark Stain. Do not over apply.
To maintain your new coat of AC you will most likely need to a light coat in 12-24 months to just the floors or horizontals surfaces. In the future, you will need to reapply AC every 2-3 years for most scenarios or as needed based on your particular traffic and weather.
Important Note: Rough Sawn cut wood can be stained right after install as long as the wood is clean and dry.
How to Calculate Square Footage
Deck Sq. Footage
Flooring Length x width =?
Railing Length x height =?
Steps Width x Depth x #of Steps =?
Add up all 3 for the Total Sq. footage.
Fence Sq. Footage
Length x height =?
Multiply x 2 for both sides = Total Sq. Footage
Coverage Rate for AC Stains
The specified coverage rate for Armstrong Clark is 150-300 square feet per gallon for the first coat on new wood. From this, and from measuring the surface you can calculate how much stain you need. For more aged wood you could easily factor in some extra stain. On newer wood that is still smooth and dense, you probably are not going to use as much.
Note: Hardwood Decking spreads about twice as far. 300-400 sq feet per gallon and only 1 coat.
For maintenance coats you are not going to use near as much stain as you did initially staining bare wood. There are just way too many variables to know the exact coverage rate. There is really no way of knowing exactly how much stain you will need. It is better to buy more than you need than to not have enough. You can always save left over stain for next time. Armstrong Clark has a shelf life of 1 year if opened and 3 years unopened as long as the can is properly resealed.
If you have a question on prepping your need wood or deck, feel free to ask below.
I used your chestnut stain on PT deck boards & PT 2×6’s for my front porch a couple years ago. Waited maybe a month after purchasing the material to stain before laying it down. It’s held up amazingly since applying. Porch floor does have a roof, although exposed to hot afternoon sun & the steps are exposed year round with the winter snow sitting on them till spring. The steps will need a refresh this fall. Looking to rebuild my rear deck railings with a darker brown over PT 2×4’s. Why wouldn’t the oxford brown or expresso stain work on lets say a month old PT material??
It’s about porosity. You cannot skip the wait and the prep. For the semi-solid colors, you need a full year.
I aged, cleaned and then stained my new deck 1 year ago, using your Rustic Brown. Good results. In this year, our 3 dogs have worn down the stain on the trafficked horizontal areas of flooring and steps. We have 3 very active dogs. New railing with verticals have since been installed from the base of the deck steps, going alongside concrete steps to our driveway. I have hoped to re-apply stain directly to the deck floor and steps and leave the verticals as-is. I know that the new railing/verticals need cleaning and staining, but am unsure about how to address last year’s deck stain.
Thanks very much for a great product.
Glad Rustic Brown is holding up well overall. For the worn traffic areas on the floor and steps, you can’t spot-treat just those spots and have it blend — clean, brighten, and recoat the entire deck floor and steps with one maintenance coat.
For the new railing verticals: if it’s smooth PT lumber, let it weather 3–4 months before staining (rough-sawn can be stained right away). Clean and brighten after the weathering period, then apply one coat. Since the railing is newer wood, it’ll come in lighter than the year-old floor at first — that’s normal and won’t match exactly right away.
Bob, how’s that rustic brown look on PT wood? Can’t get an accurate fix on the color from the pictures on this site. I’ve used the chestnut, & it’s too light of a brown for my current application. Guess only way to know for sure is to get a sample🙄.
Rustic Brown runs darker and less orange than Chestnut on PT pine. Final color still depends on your specific wood, so grab a sample before committing to a full pail: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
I’m slow getting back to you. I really like the rustic brown. We had a little rain yesterday afternoon, so am waiting to see how it matches last year
The color\tint of our deck is pretty close to this photo on the AC site, but is less reflective – more flat. It’s PT yellow pine.
We just had a screened-in porch built on the back of our house. Pressure-treated, MC = below 11%.
Yes, you have to wait and prep as the above article explains. For samples, see here: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
Can I apply two coats of rustic brown to stripped and sanded mahogany decking?
No — Rustic Brown isn’t formulated for hardwoods. On mahogany, use Amber, Mahogany, or Black Walnut only. Also keep in mind hardwood decking gets one coat, not two — it’s too dense to absorb a second coat.
Before I saw your response, I put a coat of the RB on an independent section of the mahogany deck. I will proceed with the rest of the deck using the Hardwood product. Should I do anything about the section i already did or just leave it?
Yes, strip it off and then brighten all wood.
After hours of research I like your product. Background is the painter put a indoor stain on my deck…..Made a terrible mess with some of it not drying etc,,,,,,It has now been sanded off and it is pine wood. I am sure it needs to be washed with a product etc. before another stain is used. Looking at Rustic Brown or Natural Oak… Dont want red tones ot it to be too dark but brown…..Any advise…..Plan on using semi transparent oil based stain.
Since it’s sanded down to bare wood, clean and brighten before staining — sanding closes the pores and the brightener reopens them so the stain penetrates evenly. Since it was sanded, plan on one coat.
For color, Rustic Brown and Natural Oak are both good brown options without red tones — but color varies a lot by wood type and age, and on some woods Natural Oak actually comes out darker than Rustic Brown. Order samples and test them on your actual deck before committing to a full order: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
I am having a new cedar fence installed – does the information above apply to new wood of cedar fences as well as decks? How long should I wait before I seal and what is the best application for a board on board cedar fence with a mission lattice? Does the lattice change the calculation of square footage? Is there mill glaze on newly installed cedar fencing?
Yes, the new-wood weathering rules apply to fences the same as decks — it’s about whether the wood is smooth or rough-sawn, not what it’s used for. Rough-sawn cedar can be stained right away as long as it’s clean and dry. Smooth cedar needs 3-4 months to weather before staining.
For a board-on-board fence with mission lattice, use a brush or airless sprayer — no rollers, they splatter. Brush works well for getting into the lattice detail.
Lattice does n0t change anything.
And yes, smooth-cut cedar has mill glaze from milling, which is exactly why the weathering period is needed — it’s not about moisture, it’s about opening the pores so the stain can penetrate.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I would like to use your semi transparent oil based stain on a knotty pine smooth ceiling tongue and groove and rough-sawn posts. Your instructions say rough-sawn can be sealed immediately while smooth surfaces should wait and then have your cleaner brightener product applied. I expect that step is not appropriate for ceilings where you wouldn’t want to pressure wash it. Please advise. This is new construction. Thanks
The rough-sawn posts can be stained right away — no weathering wait needed there. The smooth knotty pine ceiling T&G still needs the standard 3-4 months of weathering before staining, since that’s about the wood’s pores opening up, not moisture content.
For the cleaner/brightener step on the ceiling, you’re right that pressure washing overhead isn’t practical. Since it’s new construction with no dirt or old coating buildup, a thorough garden hose rinse (or wipe-down) after the normal 15-20 minute dwell time should be enough to remove the prep products and open the pores — just make sure no residue is left before staining. Protect the floor below from runoff/drips.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Thanks! On the back porch I’m staining pressure treated lumber…some rough-sawn and some regular pressure treated 2×12’s. Are those 2×12’s in the same category as the tongue and groove in terms of prep? Also, I put some sample stain on the tongue and groove and like the color. I’m a little concerned that opening the pores will change the color to something I may not like. What happens if you skip that pore opening step? I’m using Rustic Brown on that back deck. I have the same concern on the front patio. I like that semi-transparent chestnut color I’m seeing on the raw tongue and groove. I’m afraid using that cleaner/brightener will change the look.
Hi,
You cannot skip the prep for new wood.
We stained our new deck, 2 1/2 weeks ago with the semi transparent cedar deck stain. It still has a sticky feeling to it. Will this go away eventually?
Sticky at 2.5 weeks means it’s over-applied — the oil hasn’t been able to fully cure. Wipe down the deck with rags and mineral spirits to remove the excess, working in the direction of the boards. Saturate the oily rags in water and lay them flat outside to dry when you’re done (fire hazard if bunched up). That should let the remaining stain cure normally.
we built a deck out of Lowes lumber. When we are ready to stain, I’m planning on using the semi-transparent cedar. Do we have to do something to the wood first?
Yes, the above article explains this and what to use.
Why should I not apply with a rag? I’ve done that and wsed it heavily, than came back and wiped down. It seemed to work.
Rags are sloppy, they don’t hold much stain, and they can catch on nails or board edges. It would be very cumbersome to apply with a rag to an entire deck.
How long does the stain last in partial sunlight before a new coat needs to be applied?
Every 2-3 years for a deck.
Hello. I have a pressure-treated pine deck that was completed in May of 2024, so 2 years ago. I will be using the restore a deck cleaner and brightener, before staining with semi-transparent Nat. Oak. I was planning on 1 liberal coat, wiping away any leftover standing/shiny spots the next day. But, I wanted to check based on the age of the wood if 2 coats would be necessary or ideal. Also, is the 48 hour drying period before staining absolutely critical? I’m asking because I have a large tree above half of my deck, which attracts lots of birds and therefore bird droppings on my deck. At minimum, I anticipate having to hose down and lightly brush off any bird droppings that have accumulated after cleaning/brightening the evening prior to staining or possibly even first thing that morning. The deck gets a ton of sun, and I’d be starting with the railings and lattice, so the deck boards would have an opportunity to dry, so I was hoping that would be ok. Any suggestings?
Yes, you need to wait 48 hours after prep or any rain to stain. If you wipe up bird droppings, try to minimize the water used.
You may need two coats applied wet-on-wet. It varies based on how dry the wood is.
I have a 2-month old cedar staircase. Not sure if was kiln dried. Contractor told me to wait a week after install before staining. Has not been sanded yet. Can’t decide between Mahogany or Sierra Redwood.
You need to follow the directions of the stain brand you are using for the new wood, not your contractor. Wait another month or so, then clean and brighten as the article above suggests. Do not sand for prep.
We have a partially washed out roof beam, probably pine. Due to the height it can’t be reached directly and only be painted with a long pole. Do I use the natural tone stain?
Any color that you like would work.
We have a new deck made with kiln dried cedar. We have been mixed opinions on when to treat. The deck has been on a month now. Is there a difference in time to treat with your product with kiln dried cedar? Ty.
1-2 months for the kiln dried wood and you have to prep with the Restore-A-Deck Cleaner and Brightener kit to remove any oxidation and mill glaze. One coat of stain.
I have new plantation teak siding on a house that I’mbuilding. While the Teak won’t rot, I would like to keep it from turning grey. The siding is in areas that aren’t easy to reach so also looking for minimal maintenance. What do you recomend?
Additionally I have 2 exterior mahogany doors that are unfinished and need to be protected from the elements. What products and procedures do you recomend for them?
You would want one for the 3 colors that can be used for hardwoods. Amber (golden tone), Mahogany (richer red), and the Black Walnut (very dark brown):
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
I am building an above-ground garden with redwood sides. What stain can I use right away on the dry redwood? I’m in northern Arizona with an exceptionally low humidity climate. Also, what is the minimum quantity of your stain I can purchase? I’ll only need to cover 60 square feet per coat.
You can’t stain right away. Please read article above. It has to weather and be prepped. One gallon is the smallest size.
Last summer I installed a new deck of kiln dried cedar. We were racing against winters arrival (October here in Upper Michigan) so after 6 weeks of it being exposed to the elements I did the restore and brightener and lightly sanded it to remove mill glaze although I think it used too high of a grit, then stained with AC Amber. It was beautiful.
After the long winter it now has areas where it looks weathered and like there is no stain or has significantly faded. I did a water test on it and within 3 minutes the water was absorbing in.
Apply another coat? Or Restore and brightener and then restain?
You can do it now or just wait until next Spring. Clean and brighten for prep:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Should I do 1 coat of stain only or a light 2nd coat after restore and brightener.
One coat if you already have a base coat.
What’s causing this? Tigerwood 3yr old. Used defy restore, sanded boards, used defy brightner. . Rinsed deck for over 30 minutes, no soap bubbles. Even rained. Waited for boards to have no moisture. Front deck same way..tried an area with no brightner…same… goes on great.. looks great.. then as it dries yellow streaks appear. I put this on really light coat.. looks like i can clean it and put another coat on? Wood has zero finish.
It is something in the wood, not the stain itself. Are you sure it’s Tigerwood? It looks like IPE.
You say to install wood and let sit outside for 3-4 months or more if using a semi-transparent color. How do you know if more sitting time is necessary? I plan on replacing the cedar deck surface in about 6 weeks and staining with the Cedar or Natural Oak. I have a moisture meter so does it come down to making sure reading is in the 15-19% range?
It is related not only to the moisture percentage but also to the wood’s porosity. 3-4 months, and then prep to remove oxidation and mill glaze will work. Do not stain until 48 hours after any prep or rain.
Can this be used on KDHT lumber (Lowes carries this for their Premium lumber)?
After weathering and prep. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Thanks!
This time around, I bought myself a digital wood moisture meter and after letting the boards sit in my garage for one week, they are already sitting at around 9 to 10% moisture. The boards that I already installed earlier this week are already drying back and creating gaps on the deck. It seems like it is plenty dry. I’m just wondering how much more should I let it get weathered?
It is not about moisture % or how dry the wood is. It’s about porosity and removing the mill glaze. You have to follow the advice in the article we sent.
Ok very good thanks
New construction house with an IPE deck that was installed about 12 months ago. Want to stain it with with your hardwood IPE deck stain Amber in color. What prep should be done first and how long to wait before applying the Amber color stain? Also, Can I expect the Amber color stain will cover evenly since it is a solid.
Hi,
Please use the following kit to prep the deck: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
A few important notes on the application:
Will this product seal the end of composite deck boards from moisture?
No, it is not designed for composite decking.
I have a covered deck that I stained with Espresso semi solid stain 3 years ago. I just used the RAD cleaner and brightener. There are areas that do not get any sun and the AC stain still remains. In those areas will a new maintenance coat of the same stain adhere to the old stain or do I have to strip it and brighten again? Thanks
To get it to apply evenly, you should strip and brighten since some areas were covered.
Just replacing my deck. I have 3 22 ft glu lams beams. Looks like untreated pine but not sure. in colorado so very dry out here. how long should I wait before treating these long beams?
Same as the directions in the above article state.
Can this be used on KDAT lumber ?
After weathering for 1-2 months and then prep, yes.
YIKES! We are planning on replacing a 2200 sq ft deck with KDAT decking, in reading the material on KDAT it says to acclimate the lumber for aproximately 48 hours to your climate then give it one coat encompassing the entire board and ends. We were planning on using Armstrong-Clarke stain but in reading your advice to Marcus on waiting 1-2 months I’m confused. I don’t have and enclosed area to acclimate the boards and keep them dry for 2 months. They will be on my covered porch. In my reading and giving the 1 coat, I also read we should stain the deck within 1 week of completion. So what would the answer be? Your stain directions or the lumber?
The advice is incorrect for KDAT for AC stains (really, all stain brands), and you must follow the advice of the stain manufacturer when it comes to new wood, KDAT or not, not the wood manufacturer. For AC stains, it is 1-2 months after full install, then prep the KDAT wood. Only stain the exposed wood, not all sides. The wood needs to breathe, not be 100% encapsulated.
FYI, whoever wrote the info for KDAT and staining after 1-2 days does not understand exterior wood deck stains and coatings. There is no way for them to know how all the different stain brands will work on new wood, and when the stain brand prematurely fails, it should be on them for giving improper advice.
I have a 30 year old mahogany open sided porch. The sun hits one side. What product should I use and how do I apply it?
Use one of our hardwood colors: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
Make sure to prep well. Apply with a brush or stain pad:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wooster-pro-deck-stain-brushes
Hi
I just need a little clarification. Our Ohio spring weather has been a bit fickle.
So my newer pt pine deck is ready to be stained after following all prep guidelines. However our spring weather is making this a challenge. After a day of rain we will have 3 good days of sun. Although temps have dropped from the 80’s into the 50’s. On the 3rd day we will have temps in the 70’s which I would like to stain.
However the next day there is a chance of rain all day with chances starting around 4am.
Can I take the chance to stain? It will have around 12-14 hours of dry time with temps in the 70’s.
Thanks
You should be okay.
Thank you
Hi! I used semi trans Rustic Brown 6 yrs ago in my white pine fence. Need to restain this year. I made note I used about 12 gallons in the initial staining process. I plan to clean and brighten before restraining but do you think I need to order another 12 gallons or does a restain typically need less since there is already stain in the wood? Prices have gone up substantially since then so don’t want to over-buy. Appreciate your help!
More than likely, you will need the same amount as last time.
Can you walk on and move items around on deck while staining? You said it was ok in the past.
You cannot walk in your final coat and you cannot drag items across the wet stain. Also, only one coat if new wood, so no, do not step in your wet coat.
With the semi transparent stain on pressure treated wood deck, do you only apply one coat? Can I do 2 coats to deepen the stain color or should i just use a solid stain?
How many coats to apply depends on the age of the wood and its porosity. New wood is only 1 coat if 3-12 months old.
Hi. I’m about to replace my current composite deck boards with a grade 2 cedar deck board a local lumber yard has. the cedar I was shown at the yard was stored outside so does that account for the time frame I would wait before staining because its acclimated already? I live in Boise,ID. elevation around 2700 above sea level. I’d like to know the recommended months to stain or if it matters because the deck boards have been outside for months already, and what stain you recommend using.
Initially I planned to get the deck boards into shop (regulated heat around 70 degrees) then light sand all (120grit), spray stain both sides. then the boards would sit in shop for a month or so before installing. then install on deck and spray second coat after installed. appreciate the advice/help
It has to be installed and then weathered fully, exposed to the elements, for 3 or more months. Stored outside in a lumber yard does not count. You cannot prestain prior to installation. Only need to stain the exposed sides after weathering and prep.
Hi. Finished restoring a mahogany rail system. Stripped Sikens Cetol from certain sections and awful BenMoore Harbour coat water based from other areas w/DRP stripper+[GREAT STRIPPER. used citrus stripper on a grage door, what a MESS]. Water based stain did not protect the wood at all, terrible product. Sikens Cetol worked but <VOC(s) lead to <time bef/maintenance coat required bec/mildew infiltration behind stain. So switched to Armstrong & Clark aft/>research. A&C easier to brush on than Sikkens and 1 coat looks great. Process. 1. cleaned w/sodium percarbonate TSP and Oxi-clean. 2. stripped w/Deck Restoration Stripper +, sanded w/60-80grit. 3-4 day dry time. Then A&C!
Nice job!
Hello, I am installing a new Redwood deck. The wood has been kiln dried. How long do I need to wait after install to stain? I have found answers that say 1 to 2 months because it’s kiln dried. I plan to use your stain.
For kiln-dried, wait a couple of months and then prep with the Restore A Deck Kit.
Wanted to confirm timing for staining. I have a new IPE deck and understand I should wait 12 months before staining. I also have newly installed vertical, smooth western red cedar and understand that if I plan to use A-C semi-solid stain, I should also wait 12 months. Correct?
With the IPE and the 3 AC IPE colors, it is 3-4 months, and then prep. When using the semi-solid stain, it is 12 months, and then prep.
Finished my first Armstrong staining today on my back deck and stairs. I am putting together notes for next year on how I should do the next staining on the horizontal surfaces.
1. Do I use Restore and Brightener after the first year before staining again?
2. If you recommend both or either the Restore and/ or Brightener, do I use them at full strength or 1/2 strength?
3. Any other recommendations for year 1.
4. For years 3-4 (assuming I restrain in year 1), do I use the Restore and Brightener just like I did for the initial application I just finished?
Thank you for your assistance.
Mark
-Yes, prep again when applying a light coat.
-1/2 strength will work. The goal is to lightly wash off any dirt, etc.
-Repeat above as needed every 2-3 years.
We replaced all the boards on our 4th floor, full-sun, south-facing balcony 4 months ago with pressure treated pine. It is late October in Chicago. Am I better off waiting another 7 months until next Spring to stain with semi-tranparent AC, or risking less-than-ideal weather to get it done now before winter comes?
I assume a semi-trans stain will not hide the green ink stamps and I should sand them off. Should I sand the whole balcony to get a more consistent surface? If I’m not going to stain until Spring, should I wait until then to sand?
Lastly, our balcony sits on top of the roof over the 3rd floor balcony of the condo unit below ours. There is a drain in between our balcony boards and the downstairs neighbor’s roof below, but the drain isn’t placed right, so rain (or chemicals) may sit on the roofing material for a while. Will any of the cleaners and brighteners you recommend for prepping the bare wood damage the rubber-like roof membrane underneath our balcony? The balcony is also over a busy sidewalk, so I am worried about stray chemical splatters hitting pedestrians below. Would I be better off foregoing the cleaners and brighteners and instead sanding with 80 grit to prep the wood for stain?
Wait until Spring. Sand off the sand marks now this Fall. The chemicals should not harm the roof.
I just purchased fresh rough sawn cut cypress that is kiln dried over a week ago here in Louisiana that is acclimatizing outside for a pergola build . I am lightly sanding it. Do I have to wait a year to apply a semisolid stain?
No need to sand rough-sawn wood. If it is rough-sawn and clean and dry, you can stain right away. By sanding, you reduce the stain’s ability to penetrate, so you will need to weather and prep at a later date.
I’m getting ready to stain my deck with semi-transparent rustic brown. I purchased a five gallon drum. I have a Hyde stir whip that I attach to my drill for mixing 5 gallons. However, the directions on the drum says not to use a mixer but use a stir stick. I’m not sure a stir stick through the pour spout is going to work very well. Thoughts?
A paint mixer attached to a drill works well.
I had my deck stained a year after installation, a few months later white streaks appeared on a few boards. Those boards were re-stained/. After a few days of rain the streaks came back.
That is sap leaching out of your wood. It has nothing to do with the stain nor can it be prevented.
I see, so sanding and staining again won’t help? We should just leave it as is?
You could try but it may come back.
Thank you so much for this help!
I had my new PT pine deck board fence built two months ago. It is kiln dried. I am only now removing the mill stamps using the recommended sanding method with 80 grit paper and a palm sander. There is a noticeable difference in color as the sanding is leaving light patches on the wood. If I let things age for another two months and then use the brightener before staining, will the patches go away?
You should let it weather for a few months and then clean and brighten for prep.
I stained my new deck very successfully with all of your directions in 2024. I did another round this fall–full restore a deck treatment and then staining. Did the two sides first, then the front. The sides came out great. But on the front, despite weather reports to the contrary, it rained within an hour of finishing applying the stain. Now that things have dried out, i’m not too happy with the front–it doesn’t look like it got as much coverage, or as even coverage as the front. Can I simply add another coat of stain on a sunny day or do I have to go back to the restore a deck steps first? Thanks!
Add some pics in the comments.
Hard to get a great pic of the difference
I think you will be okay to apply another coat, but it may be best to test a board to make sure it dries okay and evenly first.
can I clean new cedar wood of dust using mineral spirits before applying stain
Not sure what you mean? For new wood, you weather the wood for 3 or more months, and then prep it with the Cleaner and Brightener kit. Using mineral spirits will not prep new wood, nor will it remove any dust effectively.
Hi there,
We have a redwood deck that’s 18 months old and like your “Rustic Brown” semi transparent stain. Can you recommend the best preperation for the stain so as to NOT bring out the “red” color? We like the brown!
Prep with this kit:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
Final color is based on your wood type and the age of the wood for decks that are newer.
We used restore-a-deck (R-A-D) semitransparent stain two years ago. It peeled in some areas after two years, so I have been removing it. I used R-A-D stain remover, then the brightener. I had to sand all the deck because, even though treating it twice with the remover in places they did not come off, stain remained throughout the deck, plus the power washer rough up the surface too much. I am now ready for new stain and am looking at Armstrong Clark because do not ever want to go through this grueling process again!
Questions:
1. Under my deck is a beautiful storage shed built two years ago, never stained. Before stripping the deck above, I cleaned the boards of the shed to try to avoid running and drip marks from above. When I brightened the deck, I also brightened the shed boards. Unfortunately, some light overspray from the stripper has made light dots on the shed wood. How do I restore the affected boards? On a test board, sanding did not do the trick.
2. It has taken several weeks to do all of the above. Since I sanded, do I need to do something more to prepare the wood for your stain.
3. Confirming: if I keep up with cleaning and putting on a coat of your stain again each year, I avoid all that I have had to do to this year with removing the former stain. Yes?
-Brightening the shed should remove the dots from the stripper.
-Clean and brighen all wood after sanding.
-Yes, to a point. You do not want to overapply the stain. It needs to fully soak in.
I finished stripping the old Penofin stain my 20 year old redwood deck. It should be ready for the Armstong stain 10 days after I apply the brightner & neutralizer. I will need to replace two 20 ft. boards. How long should I wait before staining the new boards. Would sanding the new boards or using a some chemical like a brigtner help accelerate the weathering before staining?
I know the new board wont match perfect but my only other option is to use the solid deck stain.
Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks
You should wait at least 3 months and then prep the new wood. It is not possible to speed up this process.
We had our deck retopped with pt pine. I plan on using AC semi transparent instead of Ready Seal that I used previously. There is a wood bench that is mounted on the deck that was not replaced and is stained with Ready Seal. I was unsuccessful using your stripper on it. I think my options are:
Continue to use Ready Seal just on the bench
Sand the bench and then apply AC stain
Apply the AC stain on the bench with no other preparation.
Advice, please
Our stripper will easily remove the RS. Do you have pictures you can add of the bench?
Just to follow up, I reread the stripper instructions (keeping the surface wet) and had success – it removed the Ready Seal stain completely.
Great!
Help! Our cabin deck is approximately 700sq feet we have already power washed it and waiting a few weeks to sand. The deck is Douglass Fir and due to its size we need to extend its life as much as possible as replacing it not an option at the moment. We cover it with a tarp during winter to help extend its life. We are thinking of Dark Walnut color stain, is that a one coat application or will Doug Fir require more.?
All previous coatings will need to be removed before applying the AC stains. For older wood, you typically need two coats applied wet on wet.
Yes, I bought the stripper from you guys and it worked great!!
😀
We are installing a new western cedar deck and want to use semi-solid oil based stain. The location is in the mountains of Colorado. You suggest waiting 12 months with semi-solid stains. If we install the deck in September, and the deck has snow on it for 4-5 months starting in December, when can we apply the stain?
September 2026.
Can you tell me what the VOC rating is on your deck stain?
100 VOCs.