Armstrong stain offers a wide variety of color choices in an oil based semi-transparent penetrating formula. It should be noted that with any brand of wood stain, colors cannot be guaranteed. Colors and tones can vary depending on the wood type, the age of the wood, the condition of the wood, wood prep, and stain application.
- Lighter Armstrong stain colors show more wood grain; darker colors reflect more stain color while still allowing some grain visibility.
- Darker Armstrong colors contain more pigment, offering greater resistance to UV fading compared to lighter tones.
- Order Armstrong color help samples to test colors in an inconspicuous spot before staining an entire wood structure.
Armstrong stain colors currently include Natural Tone, Cedar Tone, Redwood Tone, Cedar Semi, Sierra Redwood, Rustic Brown, Mountain Cedar, Sequoia, Woodland Brown, Oxford Brown, Mahogany, Amber, and Driftwood Gray.
Armstrong Clark Stain Color Help
As a general rule, the lighter the color, the more transparency it will have. This means that more of the wood’s natural grains will show through, which can have an influence on the final appearance. Darker colors will reflect more of the actual stain color but will still allow some of the wood grain to show through because it is a semi-transparent finish.
It is also worth mentioning that the darker the color the more resistant it is to UV fading. Darker colors have more pigment, which is what resists harmful UV rays. Lighter colors, will still provide adequate sun protection but not as much as the darker stain tones.
To be exactly sure how a certain Armstrong color will look on your wood surface, you can order a color sample. Apply the Armstrong color sample in an inconspicuous spot. Allow the stain to dry for several days to see the finished result. Order as many Armstrong color help samples as you would like. It is a good way to find the right color for your wood surface. There is nothing worse than staining a whole wood structure only to decide you do not care for the color.
With so many factors determining how a particular Armstrong color will look in its final appearance, it is wise to use the color help samples to find the tone you like. You should only need the Armstrong color help initially. Once the deck is stained you can keep it maintained with the same color unless you decide to change colors at some point.
will semi-solid stains flake or peel? Does new KDAT wood also need one year before staining?
No, it does not peel, it is a penetrating stain. Yes, you need to weather.
I am preparing to stain a new cedar fence that was just installed. I love the transparent natural tone but note that transparent stain doesn’t offer UV protection – does this mean the wood will grey? Can I mix transparent natural tone and semi-transparent cedar stain together to lighten the semi-transparent cedar? will that create problems with the UV protection on the fence?
Correct, the transparent colors have less pigment and therefore less UV protection. The wood will fade and start to gray sooner, and you will be recoating every 1-2 years instead of 2-3 years with a semi-transparent.
You can mix Transparent Natural with a semi-transparent color. Mixing within the same or adjacent opacity (transparent with semi-transparent) is fine. It will lighten the cedar, but you are also reducing the pigment, so the UV protection will fall somewhere between the two. Test samples first, as color varies with wood type, age, and prep.
One note on the fence itself: if the cedar is smooth, it needs 3-4 months of weathering before staining, then prep with the cleaner and brightener. If it is rough-sawn, you can prep and stain now.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
How long should I let my deck dry after several hours of light rain before applying first coat on a new deck?
Wait 48 hours after the rain stops before applying the first coat.
Also make sure the new wood is ready to stain. Smooth new wood needs to weather 3-4 months (KDAT 1-2 months, rough-sawn can be done right away), and it still needs to be cleaned and brightened with the RAD Cleaner and Brightener kit before staining. Smooth new wood takes 1 coat.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Can i apply armstrong stain to my deck i have used weatherscreen semi transparent previous but cannot get that product it is discontinuexmd
Yes, you can switch to Armstrong Clark, but since Weatherscreen is a different brand’s stain it needs to be fully stripped first — AC can’t go over another brand’s coating. Use a stripper and brightener kit, let the deck dry 48 hours after prep, then stain within 2 weeks of prepping. Sanding isn’t needed unless stubborn coating remains after stripping.
We applied 1 coat of Oxford Brown semi Solid and don’t like it , We planned on applying Espresso Semi Solid on top of it , within 3 weeks of each other , is this ok to do?
It would be best to remove it first. This would help with the curing/drying of the new stain and to achieve proper color with the Espresso.
If we left it for a year could we do it then? If we were to take it off now , what would we need to do
Still would need to remove it. Use this kit while pressure washing:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Ok thank you
We are installing our deck this week. We are using Douglas fir for the deck boards. Can these be stained right away or should we wait? I am planning on using the semi transparent.
Douglas fir is smooth wood, so it needs to weather 3-4 months before staining — that applies to the semi-transparent too. Once it’s weathered, prep with our cleaner and brightener kit, then stain.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Does your semi-transparent oil stain require the Cleaner & Neutralizer to be also by Armstrong-Clark product?
For best results, yes.
Can you lighten any of the semi transparent stains
The only way to do that would be to maybe mix the Natural Tone into them.
I have an old cedar home that I am in the process of cleaning, sanding then restraining, and have decided to go with A-C. Original finish is still on parts of the house (some sort of lacquer or varnish). One side of the house (north facing) is very light, while the south facing side that gets the most sun is nearly black. I used sodium percarbonate in a pump sprayer, soft bristle brush and both a garden hose or pressure washer on very low pressure with high volume to soak and rinses the wood with incredible results. Once it dried I sanded a test spot, rinsed again and after that dried applied some stain samples (Chestnut and Sequoia). I could actually get that black looking cedar back to looking brand new after cleaning and sanding.
My question is if I’m sanding off the old stain/lacquer/varnish (have no idea what it is and was applied 49 years ago), should I still use a wood brightener, or just sand it then apply the stain? Also, I live in a forested area at around 4,800 ft above sea level. Like I mentioned previously, the south side of the house gets a lot of sun and over the years that side has turned nearly black, while the north side has faded. What color would you recommend for this environment and elevation, and which color would age best/fade the least between the Chestnut and Sequoia, or is there any other color you’d recommend for this type of cedar?
Finally, what grit sandpaper should I be using, 60 or 80 grit for cedar?
Than you!
You should sand first and then clean and brighen all wood after. 60-80 grit will work. Any color you like will work. The Sequoia, being semi-solid, will give better UV resistance from fading.
This advice seems to go against every thing else I’ve read or been told to do as far as the order of preparing the wood. I should sand first? before cleaning off all the decades of dirt, mold, mildew, bat droppings, etc.? I was previously under the impression that you should clean the wood first to get rid of all the surface contaminants, otherwise you’re just sanding those things into the wood if you don’t clean the surface of the wood first. Sanding dirty wood doesn’t seem to make sense to me.
The goal is sanding off the filming coating. It does not matter if it is dirty first, but yes, you can clean off the dirt and then sand it, but you will still need to clean and brighen after sanding to fully “open up” the wood grain.
Got it! So it would be acceptable to clean the grime, mold and dirt off the surface first with sodium percarbonate, sand off the old finish, then use the cleaner/brightener as a last step before applying the new stain?
Yes, that will work well.
We just completed staining new cedar with Armstrong Clark semi-transparent cedar tone and got an amazing result. I’m trying to match an OSI Quad Max color to the stained wood and there are too many choices. Armstrong Clark is not listed in the OSI color match tool. Do you have any suggestions on possible OSI color codes?
Sorry, but no, and since the color of your stained wood can vary based on wood type, age of the wood, prep, etc. there is no way to guarantee a match.
Hi, I’m considering these products after a different coating seems to have failed. The deck is cedar with fir railings, and was installed last fall (in Vermont, no shading trees). I coated with the tung oil Outdoor Defense Oil; over this summer a black mold covered the deck and we just took it off with oxiclean, soap, and scrubbing. Some of the tung has also come up. I think we need to sand down the deck again to remove the tung as best we can (there are nooks and crannies) and then if we were to use the Armstrong Clark , reading here I think you would recommend the cleaner, then the brightener, and then one coat of Amber. Is this correct? There is certainly mold- or whatever it is- in between the planks where we can’t reach. thank you.
Can you add some pics in the comments for prep help?
These are photos of the cedar decking.
Use this kit for prep while pressure washing:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
No need to sand as it will remove the tung oil, mildew, etc.
I’m thinking of a darker gray stain to match my house. Would driftwood and rustic brown work together well?
Are you asking if you can mix the two colors? You can but not sure what the final color will look like.
Hi, I see that you do not recommend mixing Semi-solid and Semi-transparent. Does the same go for mixing Semi-tranparent & Transparent? I was thinking of mixing Rustic Brown and Natural.
Yes, you can do this.
did you discontinue the semi transparent amber stain?
We have not. Amber color is available on the order pages:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/ipe-stain-5-gallon
Will your semi transparent stains work on hardwood/red oak, or only the hardwood stains
Only use the hardwood colors for any hardwood types.
Hello, we just applied 2 coats of AC semi transparent (driftwood) over the last 2 days. Our deck was un stained, pressure treated pine that was installed 3 years ago. We did the entire Reatore A Deck prep and cleaning and some sanding (60 grit). There are some areas fo the deck floor that look like the stain didn’t take evenly or maybe from uneven application (brush used for application)? Would it hurt to do a 3rd light coat on those boards that seem to not have has much color to try and get a bit more evenness in color across the deck? Thanks!
If too much stain is applied, that can lead to improper curing and drying. We typically do not suggest it.
Thank you for the reply!
We stained the deck with cedar tone yesterday. I see the imperfections in the wood more clearly now. Can we apply a second coat but use one of the semi-transparent stains instead?
Sorry but no, it would have to be the same color and transparency. Also you would need to make sure you do not over apply.
There also appears to be almost a white film after drying. Can you tell me what that would be?
That is oxidation or furring from the cleaning that was not fully removed. Typically does not show when stained.
That picture is actually 1 day after staining with the cedar tone. Please let me know if there is something I can coat over it with. It appears to need a second coat but I am not sure if the transparent is going to help.
Try a test board with one more coat to see how it looks.
is amber a semi solid stain ?
Amber is semi-transparent only.
I’m sorry – please see my preious questions below. The color you have is Driftwood Gray, not Polar Blue – is it more blue or more gray?
The final color varies based on the wood type and the age of the wood. See photos here:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/armstrong-clark-photo-album
I have a few questions:
Can I use the semi-transparent stain on a wooden pool deck/will the chlorine damage it?
Is there a way to get a gray color?
I thought you sold a tintable stain, but cannot find it anywhere. Do you still sell a tintable?
Could I have a paint company add any color to the Polar Blue to make it more gray?
AC does not come in a tintable color. We do have a Driftwood Gray. No stain will be immune to chlorine and potential damage. You cannot custom-tint our pre-tinted stains.
Hello, just wanted to double check that the semi-transparent and semi-solid colors can be mixed together.
Also, what is the transparency of ‘Black Walnut’? Also mixable?
Thanks!
No, you should not mix semi-solids with semi-transparents. Black Walnut is a semi-transparent.
Ok, thanks.
Is this a new recommendation? Way down farther in the comments it was approved several times.
(application would be for siding not decking)
Thank you!
You can mix colors but it should be the same opacity. Mixing semi-solid colors with a less opaciyy color could potentially lead to issues with color consistency.
Ok, thanks, I appreciate the extra info!
Our house has t1-11 siding that was previously stained with A-C rustic brown semi-transparent stain. Is it possible to restain with one of your semi-solid stains? – Thanks in advance
Use this for prep and then you can:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
Thanks! In your estimation, which one of the semi-solid stains is the closest match to “rustic brown”?
Espresso but it is darker. Woodland Brown is more red.
I am getting ready to stain a newly constructed pizza oven pavillion that has cedar wrappings around all of the main beams, false beams etc. The rough side of each cedar wrap is the exposed side to be stained. There is a big inconsistency in the cedar finishes on the wraps. I was trying to keep the original wood look but that is impossible with any stain. I ordered the Transparent natural tone sample hoping it wouldn’t change the original wood color much. I tried it on several scrap pieces and there is no consistency in the color of each treated piece. Now I’m panicked about what it will look like once I start staining. I attached a photo of all the different colors that appeared on various scrap pieces . The one really dark large piece was half stained with some leftover PPG stain (the lighter color) that I used on the underside Pine tongue and groove. The other photo is a sample of some unstained pieces. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
That is normal. Transparent and semi-transparent colors are going to ehance the natural color tones of your wood. The natural color of your wood varies, hence the difference when the stain is applied.
I live in the Seattle area in the Pacific Northwest. I stained my new cedar deck two years ago with AC semi-transparent Cedar stain. The following spring I prepped the year-old deck and stained again. This year the deck has darkened quite a bit, especially the rails. I think a lot of the darkening is due to the climate and the thin layer of moss that may have accumulated over the winter. What should I do to lighten and brighten the deck this year. Thanks.
Post some pics in comments.
I tried posting photos. Doesn’t seem to be working
Circle is original color, protected from elements by a flower pot
This will help if it is mildew:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/rad-guard-mildew-algae-cleaner-preventer
Thanks. I’ll give it a try
I was a little impatient in lightening my deck’s color and decided to power wash part of it. I was over-ambitious in sections and seem to removed the stain in places. Can I touch up the places where the stain has been removed. Or will I have to prep and restrain the whole area? Thanks
Prep and stain all. You cannot spot fix.
Just the cleaner and brightener, or will I have to use the stripper too?
Strip and brighen would be the easiest way to fix this. No need for the cleaner.
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
How about the mildew-algae cleaner (see my original post and your reply)? Should I still treat the portion of the deck that I didn’t screw up with the power washer? I only power washed a small portion of the deck. Also, After the stripping and brightening , do I have to reapply a new coat of stain? Thanks for your help with all my questions
We would strip and brighten all so it is even. At this point, you have no choice but to restain after.
Three years ago I used a Semi-Transparent (Chestnut). I’m considering using a Semi-Solid this go round. Would I simply need to use the RAD Stripper/Brightener and then get to staining or would I need to do additional prep?
Do the Semi-Solids require multiple coats?
Thank you in advance!
Strip and Brighen for prep are correct. Typically one coat but sometimes two as it varies on wood age.
Can I mix the ac natural tone with the ac driftwood to get a lighter shade of driftwood
You can mix colors but the natural is not clear. It is a tinted color.
Can I mix your Armstrong natural tone with driftwood to get a lighter grey stain
My house is constructed with Sing Core manufactured pine logs. The previous homeowners stained it with Pittsburgh Ultra Advanced Stain & Sealant In One, Semi-Transparent 716 Cedar NaturalTone (see attached photo of can). It is an Acrylic Oil Formula (whatever that means). We are not big fans of the orange color. I’ve also included two photos of the house, including one of the neglected west side that desperately needs some attention. We would like to restain our house with a Semi-Solid, but are unsure how to prep for restaining and what results to expect with a color change. Will prepping set us up to use any color, or will the existing color present a problem? Will subsequent restaining eventually fix the color? I’m inclined to go with the Mountain Cedar, which looks like a yellow-leaning brown, but not sure how well it will go over the existing stain. My wife is more inclined to go with either the Espresso, which looks like a black-leaning brown, or the Oxford Brown, which looks like a gray-leaning brown. I’d rather the house not be so dark, except for the trim and window frames, so that’s why I’m inclined to go with the Mountain Cedar. Your thoughts?
You have to remove all the prior stain down to the bare wood when switching. This will entail stripping and sanding to get it all off. Once that is done, you can use any color that you like.
Thank you. I will also need matching caulk for the joints. How do find caulk to match the stain?
Just go to a paint store and find one that is close in color.
Hello, I used Deckwise Ipe Oil on a front porch Ipe deck and although I liked the initial color I’m not entirely impressed with the longevity due to a relatively quick transition to faded grey. For a different project, I’ve just sanded a rear PT pine deck to remove an old and peeling semi-solid coating and partially coated one board with some remaining Deckwise Ipe Oil. I like the Deckwise transparent stain color / oil richness on the PT pine although would prefer to use your product. What would you recommend for an Armstrong color that is similar to the Ipe Oil and what level of transparency would you recommend?? (Looking at your color card, the Natural Oak or Amber look the closest to the Ipe Oil on my PT decking. The card does not say how transparent the Amber is.) If helpful, we’re not high elevation, about five miles from ocean in Maine, and the deck receives sun for half the day. Thanks!
Use a semi-transparent color. Natural Oak would be closer to the brown color of the IPE Oil. Amber is more golden.
Great, thanks!
Trying to match a deck color with the Sequoia posts. Any suggestions?
Try Sequoia semi-solid or Sierra Redwood semi-transparent. Make sure to prep first.
If I decide to apply 2 coats on a newer pressure treated pine deck (~1.5 years old) that has never had a stain before, how long should I wait between coats?
Second coats are applied wet on wet. 20-60 minutes after the first coat.
Can you use the mahogany stain on a newer pressure-treated wood deck? If so would it be like a semi-solid or a semi-transparent?
See this about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
The Mahogany is a semi-transparent stain.
I ask because the mahogany stain is for hardwoods. Will it work the same on pressure treated? Will the pressure treated wood be darker, soak in more so to be more like a solid stain? Also my deck is five years old but has no stain on it. Do I treat it as a new deck?
No, the wood type does not dictate the transparency. It will be semi-transparent. Not new at this point.
Thank you!
Hi, I am planning to stain two unfinished pine adirondack chairs with AC semi-transparent stain. Before i had picked out the stain, I sanded one of the chairs with a medium and then fine sandpaper. I now know I shouldn’t sand them and need to let them weather, etc, before staining. The one chair that I sanded, should I sand it with rough sandpaper in an attempt to reverse what I did? Thanks!
You cannot reverse the sanding.
pressure treated wood
What is a good stain semi-solid color for redwood siding?
Any color of the semi-solids will work. If not sure, try some test samples here:
https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
Hi,
I’m working on a pergola project. To make it work structural, I needed to use Alaskan Yellow Cedar glue lambs for the posts and main beams. Everything else is Western Red Cedar. All are Re-Sawn. The woods are different colors and the AYC is harder and does not absorb the stain as well. I am thinking about using the Rustic Brown on the softer WRC and a 50/50 mix of the Rustic Brown and Oxford Brown on the AYC. Is there any issue mixing the two products?
Also, the AYC is dry and re-sawn. The WRC is not dry and is also re-sawn. Is there any need for any prep on either wood?
Thank You,
Dave 408.640.2615
No issues mixing. You have to weather and prep the wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
I have a large outdoor shed built with T-111 Fir Siding. It has been stained with Benjamin Moore water based semi transparent stain 10 years ago. Really needs restaining…How should I prepare the siding for staining with AC semi Transparent Sierra Redwood stain?
You will have to remove the BM stain fully first. For help with this, post some pictures in the comments.
We are planning to use the transparent or semi-transparent stain on this 60 year old cedar porch which was originally painted but subsequently stripped, sanded, and treated with Olympic Maximum Transparent coating for several years. The edges, which are exposed to the elements due to wind, sun, etc. are worn and the boards are separating. The middle is in fairly good shape but also probably retains more old coating.
Do you recommend your Restore A Deck Stripper, sanding, or both? The boards have been sanded many times and will likely withstand only light sanding with a hand sander.
Thank you!
RAD Stripper with both additives: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper/restore-a-deck-stripper-additives
Sand after if needed to remove any stain that does not strip off. Brightener last.
Do you offer a solid color stain for older decks?
We do not but we do have semi-solid colors and those work great for older decks.
For a previously unstained PT deck (2 years old) do you still recommend restore-a-deck?
Yes, that is correct.
Can I use mineral spirits to remove excess stain after 24 hours? Used semi solid stain on pressure treated pine
Yes, make sure to saturate all oil rags in water and lay flat to dry outside.
We are installing new redwood vertical shiplap siding on a cabin in a couple of weeks. Rough, kiln dried. I’d like to use a stain and darken the redwood, but not lose all of the grain. Would you recommend one of the semi-transparent stains like rustic brown or chestnut to use on new redwood? Also, do you recommend pre-treating the backsides and ends before installation with the same stain selected for the front/exposed side, or do you recommend something else?
Yes, any semi-transparent color that you like will work for this. No need to pre-treat the backsides, just the exposed wood after install.
Do the hardwood stains offer as much UV protection as the semi-solid stains?
No, more pigment equals better UV protection.
I’m going to order 4 samples to try on our new Western red cedar deck. I’m thinking semi-transparent or Hardwood/IPE colors but need to know which not to order if I want to avoid any with an orange and/or red tint. Also, not the Driftwood.
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
Mahogany will be red on Cedar and Amber more orange. Try Rustic Brown or Natural Oak instead.
what about chestnut and cedar? do they also appear red or orange on cedar? thanks.
Depends on the age of the wood. Older wood will be darker while new wood will be lighter.
My redwood deck was stained about 3 years ago with Redwood Tone, my store had none in stock. It has some areas that were scraped off to raw wood, lighter than the stained areas. I bought Sequoia, but it is a bit too red. I wouldnt mind it to be more transparent if that would not show too much contrast between the old stained wood and the wood where the stain has been rubbed off. I would like a more brown or golden color. Do I need to strip or can I just pressure wash deck?
Strip and brighten for prep is best here: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
I have semi solid stain on my cedar deck. It is another brand other than AC. How do I determine if I need to use the additives to the stripper? I want to order everything all together, Stain, stripper and brightner and if any additives (gel or Booster). I will be using a semi solid stain again.
Post some pictures of the deck and what brand is the current stain?
Here are a few current photos of my deck
Use both additives.
I forgot to tell you stain is either Sikkens or SuperDeck. And so I am using the booster and the gel on my deck, is that correct?
Yes, both with the stripper.
If I am using a semi-transparent this summer and need to stain it in 2-3 years with the semi-transparent stain, do I have to strip it before reapplying. Or just clean and brighten. And is it the same when reapplying the Semi-solid stain?
Clean and brighten for all AC stains.
Can I go from semi transparent to semi solid without stripping
Best would be to strip and brighten to ensure the new coating soaks into the wood fully.
Is it possible to get a color chart mailed to me? I would like to hold it up to my vinyl siding to see what looks
We do not send out color charts as they are not any different from what you see on the computer. Final colors will always vary as well based on wood type, age of the wood, application, and prep. This is why we offer a sample program as well.
Im building a new deck 12 x 14 with pressure treated pine. The deck is 8 ft above ground, I would like the bottom and top to both be stained. I have dried the wood for 2 months on the driveway thinking I could stain both sides then install but seems like you are recommending waiting a year before staining. Any advice on how to stain both sides if I build the deck then stain in place next summer.
See here about new wood: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
It did not post correctly, sorry. The local store did not advise to wait and we took in a sample of the wood from the benches. So where can I go from here to correct the issue?
Sorry but as we said, it will not dry correctly unless you weather and prep the wood. It states on the container to let new wood weather and be prepped.
Actually Western Red Cedar is NOT supposed to be aged or weathered according to the lumber industry. Most woods, yes, but not WRC. It is to be treated right away.
They are 100% wrong as they also do not know how individual stain brands work to cure and dry. All stain brands including Armstrong Clark will suggest a waiting period and prep before staining on cedar and other wood types.