Choosing Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains will ensure lasting beauty and protection for all your exterior wood surfaces. Backed by five generations of experience in oil-based coatings and cutting edge technology, Armstrong Clark Wood Stains will not only meet your wood protection needs but far exceed them.

Determine the square footage area of the surface you plan to stain. On decks be sure not only to measure the floor but also railings, spindles, steps and all areas that you are planning to stain. Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stains will cover approximately 150-200 sq. ft. per gallon depending on age and wood porosity.

The Armstrong Clark Staining Instructions

Armstrong Clark Deck and Siding Stains come in many different colors and tones. Keep in mind that the actual color results can vary depending on the type, age, condition, and porosity of the wood. Color samples are available if needed.

Prior to using any of the Armstrong Clark Wood Stains it is important to prepare the wood surface properly so the stain will perform as expected. See the RAD Wood Cleaner or Stain Stripper products for properly cleaning the wood surface prior to staining.

Allow the wood surface to dry 1-2 days after it has been cleaned and prepped. Be sure no rain is expected on the day of staining and for 3-4 hours after application so the stain can cure properly.

To apply Armstrong Clark Deck Stain you can use a roller, brush, stain pad, or airless sprayer. Mix the stain thoroughly prior to use. Unlike other stains, Armstrong Deck Stain can be applied in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first application of stain penetrates within 30 minutes another coat can be applied for added protection.

If applying by sprayer, use a roller or brush to go over the sprayed areas for a more even appearance. After 24 hours use a dry rag to remove any remaining puddles or glossy areas.

Armstrong Clark Wood Stain is environmentally friendly and does not contain an offensive odor. It is easy to apply and very user-friendly. Enhancing the appearance of your deck and giving it lasting protection is the best investment you can make and Armstrong Clark Oil Based Wood Stains makes it easy.

Questions on Staining? Ask Below!

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  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Ted Larsen · 06/08/2020
    Hi, I have my mahogany deck all prepped and will be staining with Hardwood/IPE stain when dry. I used to use Cabot and would generally roll it on and brush it in a section at a time. When done with each section I would wipe excess stain off with a rag to get an even finish. Your instructions above say to wait 24 hours before wiping excess. My concern is this may create darker spots or be difficult to mop up in sunny spots if it's cured. I just want to confirm this is best practice before I get started. Thanks!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/08/2020
      Yes, that is correct. Do not back wipe right away as you may remove the curing oils before it has a chance to dry.
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    Joe V · 06/08/2020
    I finished my deck yesterday and I have 2 issues this morning .
    1 I noticed that in some areas I over applyed the stain and
    2 sime boards do ot to seem to have enough stain.

    What can I do at this point to to blend it in ?
    Thanks

    Joe
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/08/2020
      Let it cure for a few days or week, it should help to even out.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 06/08/2020
          Unfortunately, you cannot spot remove some and then spot apply some and have it all blend. Applying an entire coat at this point would even it out but you will have over application areas that may have issues curing correctly. The really only way to fix is to remove all and start over and I am not sure if you want to do this?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Bruce · 06/02/2020
    Hi there

    I’m about to start a deck staining project on a deck that is about 4 years old that has never had any stain applied. The floor section is mahogany and the walls/benches are cedar. We live in Toronto, Ontario so winters are long and can get very cold. Was thinking of using the Hardwood product for both mahogany and cedar. Pictures below show the wood both dry and wet (which highlights the difference). Have already power washed and intend to sand the cedar as power washing appears to have been too hard on cedar. Some questions which I was hoping to get your informed views on: 1) is it ok to use the Hardwood product on both wood surfaces? 2) will the end result be as distinct as the attached photos when the bare wood is wet or will it appear as same colour? 3) given no stain has been applied before, do I need to apply the clean and brighten steps? 4) to calculate the amount of stain I need should I measure all surfaces as being the same as deck in your calculator as there are no railings. Thanks in advance
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/02/2020
      1. Yes.
      2. You cannot get cedar to match Mahogany so yes, they will be different colors no matter what.
      3. Yes.
      4. Yes, but round up since your sides are all solid wood.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Bruce · 06/02/2020
        Thanks for the quick response. I have added it all up and including all the external facing wall sections it is around 1000 square feet. So 7 gallons should be about right for the single coat I figure.
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    Steve · 06/01/2020
    Clear redwood deck 16 yrs old, sanded, stained w/ Armstrong Redwood Tone when new redone every 4 years. Just finished sanding/staining. Applied second coat of Armstrong by roller and back brush. Wiped up any puddles
    but still getting some wet spots appearing when sun shines on deck even a week later. Will this eventually
    go away. Deck looks fabulous, couldn't be happier w/ Armstrong!!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 06/01/2020
      Yes, it will go away but you can wipe down the deck with mineral spirits to speed it along. Saturate all oil rags in water when done and lay flat to dry outside.
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    Thor · 05/30/2020
    A thunderstorm arrived about 1 1/2 hours after application. The deck is old. It was prepared properly and dry before application. The past 2 days have dry and sunny. Question: did The rain compromise the process? If so, how can I evaluate ad and what can I do?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Justin · 05/29/2020
    We have a Mahogany covered porch/deck. It was originally varnished 4ish years ago and was peeling. I have prepped with a belt sander (first with 80 grit, then finished with 120 grit). I bought AC hardwood semi-transparent samples to choose color (Amber vs Mahogany). We have settled on Mahogany but the curing experience has me concerned. After my research, I applied what I believe was a light coat (amber and mahogany side by side to compare color) with one of those 1" foam $.69 brushes from big box. I did not wipe at time of application. 24 hours later it was noticeably wet and stain transferred to my finger on a light touch to check. Since it was 24 hours later, and based on advice I've seen in these 17 pages of Q&A, I wiped it. I came back another 12 hours later (overnight) and it appeared dry with no transfer when touching it (it looked great). Because I was testing and wanted to find out what I'm in for, I took towel and gave a more aggressive wipe. With a more aggressive wipe, I noticed some stain transfer to the towel.

    I searched each of the pages of comments for 'wipe' and read the various scenarios. There is a lot of consistency in the advice given, but it's not perfect. All say 'do not wipe right away', a lot say 'wipe after 24 hours', some say 'do not wipe at all (ever)'.

    The weather was 80ish, no rain, but humid. I don't want to wipe away ingredients that help prolong the value I'm putting into my deck.

    Possible thoughts:
    1) It was humid, I should have waited more than 24 hours to wipe.
    2) The more aggressive wiping I did 36 hours after application is considered to be "working as designed, it doesn't get any better than this"
    3) I read a comment about 120gr sanding won't allow for proper absorption. This is only one comment and doesn't seem to be substantiated by other comments.
    4) It appears as if the chemical applications (stripper, cleaner, brightener) are not necessary if it was a few year old peeled varnished that was sanded down to fresh wood. A lot of the deck/porch wasn't peeling and no signs of rot or degradation. Brightener is, among a few other things, to PH balance after stripper and stripper/cleaner doesn't seem necessary when I did the prepping I did.
    5) I'm really not in support of a bunch of fixing procedures after I'm done (spraying/washing with mineral spirits, new/additional coats, reapplication, etc.).

    Questions:
    A) What can I do to get more comfort to place the full order and finish the project?
    B) Is it ok to wipe after 24 hours and just live with whatever transfer may happen after? Will transfer diminish as it has more time to cure in this scenario?
    C) Am I shortening the life of the project by wiping after 24 hours?
    D) does even the slightest indication transfer indicate that, since there's some form of oil still present, it will collect and show dust, pollen, dirt and fade darker more quickly?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/29/2020
      Your issue is because of the sanding. It cannot fully absorb in.
      a. let the wood sit for unstained afore 3-4 weeks and then clean and brighten for prep. This will open up the wood grain.
      b. Yes.
      c. No.
      d. No.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Justin · 05/29/2020
        Much appreciated. If I re-sand with 80 grit do I need to wait 3-4 weeks and apply the chemicals? I have never seen a 'wait 3-4 weeks' when it's being sanded back to wood.
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 05/29/2020
          Yes, that would help to "swell" or open up the wood pores. Sanding with 120 grit is over sanding and closes the wood pores.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jack · 05/28/2020
    Hi, I just finished a restain job on my redwood deck using your semi-transparent stain. Per the instructions on the website, I used a 1/4 inch nap roller. Now I started reading some of the FAQs and seeing where there are comments to not use a roller. What gives here? My deck looks really good, but am I going to run into issues? Shouldn't the staining instructions be updated if rolling is no longer recommended?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/29/2020
      You will be fine it is just easier to use a pad or brush.
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        Jack · 05/29/2020
        Thank you for your reply. Had me worried for a bit. Because of a messed up knee, I found using a roller on a pole to be my only option.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    scott · 05/28/2020
    Exactly what is back brushing? I stripped, neutralized (the prep) and stained my IPE deck with AC Amber twice now in the past two weeks and each time it does not seem to cure properly...after several days its oily, slick and then when it rains it appears the stain is washing away ..its blotchy, and I can see oily rainbows in the puddles so obviously it did not cure. The first time I called AC and we determined I did not wait the proper 48 hrs after the prep work so the IPE likely had not dried. I repeated the entire process again this past weekend...waited 48 hrs after the prep, stained on Monday and today (Thursday) it rained and the same happened again... i figured as much since it was oily and slick all week..even after wiping several times. Now I am wondering if my issue is really back brushing? I primarily used a pad to apply the AC and I did go in the direction of the wood, but to apply an even coating I did go back and forth over the boards with the pad and a brush to get in between the board. I don' want to strip it again...too many chemicals in such a short time. Is there anything I can do to clean it up and make it look halfway decent or just wait til next year?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      scott · 05/29/2020
      so after using the mineral spirits ..is there anything, other than a full redo, that I can do to touch up the blotchy boards until I try again next year? also please explain what back brushing is and if it is completely forbidden with this product.?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/28/2020
      The issue is over-applying. You can apply 1 coat to IPE wood. You may need to remove all and start over if it doe snot cure correctly. No other way to fix.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        scott · 05/28/2020
        I did not apply a second on top of the first. In my first attempt it did not take so i did the entire process again .. stripped, neutralize, stain. It didn't take again.
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 05/29/2020
          It is still being over applied though. At this point you should take some mineral spirits and rags and wipe down to remove the access stain. Make sure and saturate all oily rags in water and lay flat to dry outside.
          • We will reply to your comment shortly
            scott · 05/29/2020
            [reposting here so the reply is chronological order] so after using the mineral spirits ..is there anything, other than a full redo, that I can do to touch up the blotchy boards until I try again next year? also please explain what back brushing is and if it is completely forbidden with this product.?
            • We will reply to your comment shortly
              Armstrong · 05/29/2020
              Back brushing if you do it too soon will remove the curing oils from the wood as it dries leaving the non-curing oils at the surface. This could result in stickiness, unevenness, and rub off. I would not suggest doing anything else until next year.
              • We will reply to your comment shortly
                scott · 05/29/2020
                just to clarify. When initially applying AC with a pad or brush you should only move the pad or brush forward but never backward? Just wanted to clarify because many other products I have used encourage back brushing. Thanks for all your support.
                • We will reply to your comment shortly
                  Armstrong · 05/29/2020
                  Just apply evenly with the grain of the wood. You can go back and forth while applying but do not back wipe off the stain.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Erik Olson · 05/28/2020
    I'm writing looking for guidance about how to absolutely get two coats of AC semi-solid Sequoia stain on our deck without the end result being a sticky mess we can't walk on.

    Here's the background:

    Two weekends ago we used the RAD stripper and cleaner/brightener on our well-worn (30-year-old?) 400 sf pressure-treated lumber deck. Tomorrow morning once the rain quits we'll finish sanding some of the fuzzies from my powerwashing and then will give it one more cleaner/brightener treatment, then stain this Sunday if the forecast for 48 hours of no rain holds.

    We used your online calculator for the amount of AC semi-solid Sequoia stain (deck, railings, stairs, etc.). Because our deck historically has been thirsty, we went one gallon beyond the suggested two-coat six-gallon allowance.

    We'd like your advice on how to apply the first coat so that we absolutely can get the second coat on it, and not wind up with the sticky residue others have reported when they overapplied. Our options would be brush, roller, pad, or sprayer (the Chapin Clean-and-Seal sprayer with several tips sold on the RAD website).

    Based on what I've read, I'm thinking we should apply at least the first coat extremely sparingly, and that doing so with a bristle brush might give me the most control. My aim is to get sufficient absorption within 30 minutes to permit a second coat. But I also could try a pad or a lighter-nap roller, or possibly even the sprayer if its most open tip can accommodate AC semi-solid.

    And then there's the question of the second coat itself. There again should I apply super sparingly, or can I apply more generously?

    Lots of uncertainty! What would you counsel?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/28/2020
      You should only apply one coat of the semi-solid to the deck since you sanded. If you apply too much then you will have issues with it curing correctly. You cannot spray the semi-solid. Just one good coat now using a stain pad or brush.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Erik Olson · 05/28/2020
        Interesting. I haven't sanded the main deck yet, but was going to do that tomorrow morning after some hours of drying.

        If I refrained from sanding the deck to remove the fuzzies from my earlier powerwashing, then how instead would you answer my questions above about the reasoning process, tools, and manner of applying the first and second coats? Our goal is to make project as protective and lasting as possible.
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 05/28/2020
          The only time you would need to apply 2 coats of the semi-solid wood would be to old and dried out wood. More stain does not equal longer life of the stain. You would be better off doing 1 coat now and then another light as needed down the road in a couple of years.
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    Maureen · 05/24/2020
    Hello! We just stripped, brightened (with RAD products) and stained our 12-year-old Ipe porch with A-C Black Walnut wood stain. We applied one coat, per the instructions. My painter suggested that we apply another coat of the wood stain in the late fall, before our harsh winter. We live in the Rock Mountains at 8000', the porch is partially covered. Do you agree? Or can you tell me what maintenance looks like moving forward? Many thanks!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/25/2020
      No, just clean and recoat in the Spring. IPE needs to be redone annually.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Maureen Kinney · 05/25/2020
        Thank you for your response. For clarification, when you say, "Clean", do you mean with the RAD "Cleaner" and then apply another coat of A-C Hardwood Ipe Wood Stain every spring? Thanks.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Dan Ferguson · 05/23/2020
    How long do I need to wait to stain a new deck? It is pressure treated deck board..
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Michelle · 05/20/2020
    What would you suggest for my farmer's porch? Our ceiling is knotty pine (and I love the natural color is it but want to protect it). The deck boards I was told is all mahogoney but as you can see, we recently replaced a few boards. I tried the water test on the new boards (water did not soak in) but the old boards sucked up the water in no time. Do I just stain the old boards at this point as we had them powerwashed about 2 weeks ago?
    I know for sure I don't want anything solid, I don't mind the contrasting colors of the deck but I'd like to add protection. Also, what can you tell me about Timber Oil? My fiance has it in his head that is the best product to use right now but I think this looks good. What are the major differences
    Thanks!
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/20/2020
      For mahogany, you need one of the hardwood colors: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains/hardwood-and-ipe-stain

      Best to let the new wood weather and then prep and stain all later in the Summer.

      Timber Oil is not designed for hardwoods.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Michelle · 05/20/2020
        I think Amber would be nice, but my fiance likes mahogony. Mahogony may be too
        red for my liking ,though BF is afraid Amber may be too yellow ??
        Also, what do you recommend for the Knotty Pine ceiling of the farmer's porch? It doesn't get any sun, we want to protect it, and love it's natural beauty.

        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 05/21/2020
          Try Natural for the ceiling. I like Amber for the Mahogany.
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    ML · 05/19/2020
    Can I apply natural oak over steps that had another stain on them, but now has been lightly sanded?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/20/2020
      No, previous coatings need to be fully removed first.
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    MJN · 05/19/2020
    I am building a new cypress fence that I plan to stain in Espresso. I have a couple of questions. Do I really have to wait a year before staining? What is the downside if I don't wait that long? The fence boards will be installed horizontally with a 3/8" gap between each board. Do I need to ease the edges of the boards for them to accept stain properly? Coming straight off the saw, the edges are currently pretty sharp.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/19/2020
      Yes, you have to wait. It will not dry and cure correctly if you do not. No need to do anything to edges. The only way to seal this sooner is if the wood is rough sawn cut.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    amy · 05/17/2020
    we applied the driftwood semi transparent stain to our new deck that had aged for several months before staining. it came out beautifully except because of all of the rain we have had the past couple weeks, our dog has been tracking mud prints on the deck. it wouldnt come off just by simply spraying with hose so i looked online to see how i could remove without damaging stain and it said to use baking soda. I did that and used a brush and scrubbed gently and it removed the stain! what should i have done differently? and can we do touchup spots again with our remaining stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/17/2020
      Try to touch up the spots. Use soapy water with a car wash brush next time.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        amy · 05/19/2020
        ok thank you for the feedback! we will do!
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    Lisa · 05/16/2020
    OK, so do I take the lid off and if so how or do I use the pour spout to mix?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/16/2020
      You can pry up the tabs on the lid and remove it completely to mix.
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    Lisa · 05/16/2020
    how do I mix the stain?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/16/2020
      Stir stick or a paint mixer for a drill.
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    Joe · 05/14/2020
    I'm getting ready to use apply your semi solid stain my deck and I want to make sure apply it correctly using a brush or pad.
    1. when apply the stain do i apply in in only one direction of can i brush back brush it to even out the quantity of the stain and the let it dry ?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/14/2020
      Just apply it evenly with a deck stain pad going with the board directions. Do not back brush.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Jeremy Berger · 05/14/2020
    Applying Armstrong on IPE - Just want to confirm I have the right steps (nervous)

    1- Strip with Restore a Deck
    2- Brighten with Retstore adeck
    3- Stain with a Stain brush with grain on wood - Where I'm confused - After 24 hrs do I wipe off any excess stain or let it cure/oils penetrate longer? Or do I leave it for 48 hrs before doing anything??
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/14/2020
      Steps are correct. Just apply one coat and let it dry. If needed, after 24 hours you can wipe off excess stain. Saturate any oil rags in water and lay flat to dry outside and away from the house.
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Mike Lewis · 05/12/2020
    I put one coat of semi natural on a 180 square foot deck made of plywood (1 1/8” thick). Should I put another coat on after it dries?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    FP · 05/07/2020
    how many coats are required on an IPE Deck for best results? 1 or 2? If the answer is 2, how much time between the first and second coat?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    WB · 05/07/2020
    I stained a 1500 sq/ft section one afternoon and the remaining 500 sq/ft the next morning, all in great weather. I'm having trouble getting the two sections to blend nicely, IE; I can clearly see where one ended and has an overlap...any suggestions to have a better finished look?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    scott · 05/06/2020
    Just ordered Armstrong Clark for IPE in Amber. Have about 400 sq ft of deck mostly 5/4" deck boards. What is the best application method ..brush, or cloth? I don't want to use a roller because I like to get between the boards. If brush ..is natural fiber the way to go and do you have a specific brush that served you well? If cloth or pad, what type , specifically one that will not leave fibers behind.

    After application am I suppose to wipe excess (like other stains)?

    Just one coat or do you recommend two coats?


    Thanks
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/06/2020
      Stain pad or brush. It does not matter on the fibers. Do not back wipe right away. You can after 1-2 hours if needed. One coat for hardwoods.
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    mathew · 05/05/2020
    how can i tell if i need another coat once its dried? I was not present during application so I'm not sure if it took more than 30 mins to soak in or not. Is there another "test" i can do?

    Used the semi-trans cedar stain.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 05/06/2020
      It is more visual. If it looks good then leave it alone. More is not always better.
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    Dave · 05/02/2020
    How much AC Hardwood Amber will I need for 75’ mahogany 2x4” top and bottom railings with mahogany balusters as fill (posts are painted)?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    Evan Prentiss · 04/30/2020
    Planning on staining my fence over the weekend. Saw here to wait 48 hours after rain fall in order to apply. Seems self explanatory, but my sprinklers hit the fence in the morning. Should I turn them off for two days?
  • We will reply to your comment shortly
    PL · 04/28/2020
    Hello, we had 2 of our decks stained with AC semi-solid about 3 years ago and ever since there's been residue on our shoes after walking on it. Decks are basically unusable.

    What is the normal cause of this? Bad prep, application, or something else? It was applied by a sprayer and 2 coats.. How to fix as well?
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 04/28/2020
      Over applied. Best to lightly clean and apply one coat of Stain with Natural Tint. It should look in the residue.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        PL · 04/28/2020
        Stain with Natural Tint. Does that mean no color? Also should it be water or oil based? A product recommendation would be appreciated. Apologies, I'm not entirely stain "literate." Also, when you say lightly clean, would you be able to specify the method and what to clean with?
        • We will reply to your comment shortly
          Armstrong · 04/28/2020
          Natural is lightly tinted. AC is only oil-based. Use AC in Natural. Other brands will not work over the AC. Lightly clean with a pressure washer and soap.
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    Tom · 04/28/2020
    2 part question: 1. Did the covered part of the deck yesterday and it looks great. Used 3" bristle brush then wiped off all excess right after. I worked to eliminate any glossy areas, 24 hours later when I wipe is still get some on a soft cotton cloth (See Pic). Is some of that normal or should I continue to wipe down all boards? 2. Thoughts about brush vs. roller if I am going to wipe down each board anyway? I thought I could speed the process up a bit.
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 04/28/2020
      You are not supposed to back wipe it right away. By doing this you remove the curing oils from the no drying oils and that is an issue with drying. You might want to contact the number on the container for more help.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Tom Feiten · 04/28/2020
        Thanks somehow I got turned on this process I called the company on the can and they advised to reapply a light coat and wait 24 hours.
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    Allen M · 04/27/2020
    Will buy airless sprayer, either 1/2 hp or 5/8 hp, to put Rustic Brown semi-transparent on a fence. From what I've read, tip sizes of 15/1k inch or 17/1k inch COULD work, but the smaller tip may be too small for this stain. You know your stains best -- what do you recommend? I'd like to be sure because the 1/2 hp sprayer I'm considering won't support 15/1k tips, while the bigger sprayer will but is $65 more.
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    Tom Feiten · 04/27/2020
    the deck is cleaned and ready to go but it did rain yesterday, the deck will get full sun this morning with a high of 6 and I put a fan on it and I dried it with a towel when I woke. It already looks dry, assume I can start staining today??
    • We will reply to your comment shortly
      Armstrong · 04/27/2020
      48 hours after a rain is needed.
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Tom Feiten · 04/27/2020
        Living in Knoxville .... heck it might be August before I see 2 days without rain :).
      • We will reply to your comment shortly
        Thomas P Feiten · 04/27/2020
        forgot to mention its ironwoods super dense. Does that make a difference? seems bone dry.