Armstrong-Clark's deck and siding wood stain makes use of conditioning oils that part from the drying oils in the formula. The nondrying oils penetrate into the wood and take the place of the wood's diminishing natural oils. This process revives and restores wood.
The drying oils stay on the wood surface and lock in the conditioning oils to produce a barrier that is dry to the touch. Armstrong's deck and siding wood stain contain vegetable oils in addition to transparent pigments, solvents, mildewcides and water repellents.
Application can be done in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first coat of stain penetrates within 30 minutes an additional coat may be applied for extra protection.
Applies easily by roller, brush, or airless sprayer. During spraying - going back over with a brush or roller will help give a more even appearance. After 24 hours any remaining puddles or glossy spots can be removed using a dry rag.
Older wood is reconditioned by deep penetrating nondrying oils.
Drying oils lock in the conditioning oils while pigments and water repellents lock out moisture and UV damage.
Armstrong wood stain is compliant with all environmental standards.
Does not contain any offensive odors.
Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stain applies at 150-200 sq ft per gallon. Depending on wood porosity, actual coverage will vary.
*We do not guarantee stain colors as they will vary widely depending on the wood type, age of wood, prepping of wood, and application. Small samples are available at top.
Thursday, 28 September 2017
I don't write product reviews. However, this stain is too good not to write one. We replaced our 34 year old deck floorboards last summer. During the past year, we researched deck stains and discovered that oil-based stains are becoming harder to find, which led us to Armstrong Clark. First of all, the option of buying samples is genius, as I would have chosen the wrong color without samples to test. After prepping the deck with the cleaner and brightener, the first difference I noticed from 34 years ago was that you no longer have to spend fifteen minutes trying to stir the thick sludge from the bottom of the can into a usable product. The Armstrong Clark stain was so easy to stir! The semi-transparent stain then went on evenly, was absorbed quickly, and dried to a rich, beautiful color. I love this stain! It has just recently been applied, so I can't write about its longevity yet, but this is a high quality product, and I am confident it will perform as described. We are thrilled with the way our deck looks, and will not hesitate to recommend it to others. A dreaded chore became a joy!
Thursday, 22 June 2017
Armstrong Clark is the top rated VOC compliant penetrating oil based stain. Allowed in all US States and Canada!
I have red cedar shingle siding. After stripping old finishes and brightening the shingles are yellowed from their original reddish tone. What tint would you recommend to restore the red cedar tone?
I am thinking Sierra Redwood.
Hi, We have 9,044 linear sq feet of cedar on our ceilings (both interior and exterior). It was installed 2 years ago and one coat of AC clear coat natural finish was factory applied. We would like to keep up on the
maintenance. Does the wood need to be prepped before applying another coat? It appears to be in good condition.
Also, how many gallons would I need? Our invoice from the wood manufacturer states:
STAIN FOR CEDAR-LAM - ONE COAT
ARMSTRONG CLARK CLEAR COAT
NATURAL FINISH FACTORY APPLIED
Do you think I should order the transparent natural tone?
Thank you in Advance.
Here are some pictures. The cedar is on 2 small exterior walls which have direct sun exposure (one is pictured). Just want to clarify...we don’t need to stain yet or nothing needs to be done prep the wood before staining?
If you don’t recommend staining yet, how many years can we wait? Thank you
That's good news...I thought this would be more of a regular maintenance job. Since we're talking will you let me know how many gallons I will need when the time comes? And also does the wood needs to be prepped before applying?
Thanks for the reply. Our supplier of the cedar boards is telling us to stain all six sides prior to installation. Once installed, we can do a 2nd coat on the outside face only (this step is not required).
Being that it is new cedar. Would you say that Natural Oak is the closest to the picture I posted?
Sorry, but they are wrong. You cannot pre-stain wood prior to install nor is there any advantage to this. Wood needs to breathe and not be 100% encapsulated on all six sides. Also, wood stains like the AC will not take to new smooth wood unless weathered and prepped.
You would need to test samples to see the color on your wood and since you cannot pre-stain, it is best to order the samples.
I have a timber home. The timbers have not been treated since the house was assembled in mid 90's. They have a nice gray finish that easily power washes off. My question is: Do i need to power wash before I stain? I have refinished all my decks with semi trans driftwood gray. It seems that the stain would penetrate the gray layer and be effective. Thoughts
New cedar fence installed last fall in Minnesota. We ordered samples and like the transparent natural stain on test boards. The boards are very rough cut on one side (facing us) and the neighbors side and posts are more smooth. See attached.
Should we do any prep/clean/brighten with these style boards? They seem well dried out and our main hope is to deepen the color a bit and protect. The results will obviously be really different on each side and we’re ok with that.
I’m in a similar timeframe of my rough cut cedar fence (on both sides) in WI. It was installed Oct 2019. Fence install company said I only needed to wait 3-6 months to stain but looks like your product suggests a year. Should I wait until fall?
Hi I order several gallons of Amber and received it yesterday. In the photo gallery I liked the colour but did not notice that that was on IPE wood. I tried it on cedar yesterday and I do not like the orange/golden tone and was hoping for a light-medium brown.
This is going on a stripped and brighten cedar fence. Can I mix it 50/50 with Natural Oak (Rustic Brown?) to get a more brownish colour?
2 Kits of the RAD Stripper/Brightener are correct. For two coats of semi-transparent, you will need closer to 13 gallons. If you choose semi-solid, you will be closer to 10 gallons and only one coat is typically needed.
Pump sprayers will not work. Airless is fine but you will still need to back brush to ensure it is applied evenly. Rollers will apply but are not as easy as a stain pad as they can splatter. So best are stain brushes and stain pads.
I have a 1300 square foot deck surrounding an inground pool. The deck is entirely flat and ground level, no railings or seating and some plantings surrounding it.
The deck is made of Pressure Treated Southern Yellow Pine and is 10yrs old and the wood itself is generally in good condition.
3yrs ago it was finished with PPG ProLux (from Home Depot) but while some of that junk remains visible, that finish (which didn't seem to penetrate at all) has mostly been stripped away by the weather. Mostly but not everywhere.
My plan is to use RestoreADeck Stripper/Brightener (2 kits worth) and 10 Gallons of the Armstrong Clark Stain either Semi Transparent or Semi-Solid.
Does this all sound reasonable? Does the pool have to be covered/masked/protected from any of the cleaning solutions? Thanks!
Only 1 coat, thankfully, we have a lot of fencing! I tried using a roller, but since the boards are staggered, it didn't roll on well. Plus, the roller seemed to absorb too much stain. So, l just used a brush to apply.
Yes, we let the fence age a couple of years beforehand and it was constructed with PT boards. Just built a new section of fence and the wood is still very yellow, so it will need some time to cure otherwise I don't think it will match so well.
We have a deck that is approximately 30 years old. It was last sanded and stained about 7 years ago. Portions of the deck are covered in mildew/algae. We were planning on power washing, sanding, and staining. Is this the way to go or should we be following different steps? We will need to replace 3 rotted boards. The deck is 60x12. How much stain will will need?
I have a 14'x17' treated pine pergola that has been up for about 6 months now and we are going to stain after the holidays. We are in S Florida so I assume that semi transparent would be the way to go for "some" UV protection. I'm having an issue trying to figure out how much I'm going to need. Not sure if one 5 gallon bucket will be enough? is there any advice you can give or anyone else feel free to chime in
I know it has to be above 49F to stain. It's getting to that for several hours during the day, but is dropping below at night. How will that effect the stain? Should I wait until spring early summer for more consistent temps?
Do your Standard and Hardwood stain lines have similar penetration properties or is the Ipe line a deeper penetrating product? I will be using your stain on 30 yr old 1x6 redwood siding that has been cleaned and prepped. The siding is very dry on certain exposures and I'm sure will drink it up. I'm looking to get as much goodness as deep as possible but do not need to penetrate a hardwood like Ipe. Can I use your Standard line? Thanks - Larry
I just had 317ft of 6ft cedar fence installed about a month ago out here in Colorado. I am wondering how many gallons of semi transparent stain I’ll need? I plan on staining both sides. I had ordered some samples and just ordered another one to help decide on which tone to go with. Thank you for your time!
If your deck was done in your Semi-solid stains how do you get the deck ready to redo the stain when it is time to redo your deck? I am trying to decide which stain to buy a semi-transparent or a semi-solid stain and how easy it would be to clean the deck to reapply the stain.
I will be cleaning/brightening my cedar deck soon and reapplying the same semi-trans stain color I did 2 years ago.
Is there a maximum amount of time between clean/brighten and actual staining that I should be aware of? I know I will need to let it dry after brightening...but just curious how long I have before I should get onto the actual staining after that first step?
I want to stain my newly install patio ceiling. It is made of cedar tongue and groove. Is there a recommended stain for this? Also, do any of these stains aid in termite prevention? Thank you for your help.
Any dealer in upstate NY? I am slightly concerned as I am restaining a deck that in the past I used the Olympic Maximum stain Brick Red. Will your mahoganybe close? It looks very red on your color swatches above