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05/11/2020
Is any dealer in Austin Texas?
Armstrong-Clark's deck and siding wood stain makes use of conditioning oils that part from the drying oils in the formula. The nondrying oils penetrate into the wood and take the place of the wood's diminishing natural oils. This process revives and restores wood.
The drying oils stay on the wood surface and lock in the conditioning oils to produce a barrier that is dry to the touch. Armstrong's deck and siding wood stain contain vegetable oils in addition to transparent pigments, solvents, mildewcides and water repellents.
- Application can be done in direct sunlight and on hot days. If the first coat of stain penetrates within 30 minutes an additional coat may be applied for extra protection.
- Applies easily by roller, brush, or airless sprayer. During spraying - going back over with a brush or roller will help give a more even appearance. After 24 hours any remaining puddles or glossy spots can be removed using a dry rag.
- Older wood is reconditioned by deep penetrating nondrying oils.
- Drying oils lock in the conditioning oils while pigments and water repellents lock out moisture and UV damage.
- Armstrong wood stain is compliant with all environmental standards.
- Does not contain any offensive odors.
Coverage Area
Armstrong-Clark Deck and Siding Stain applies at 150-200 sq ft per gallon. Depending on wood porosity, actual coverage will vary.
Important
*We do not guarantee stain colors as they will vary widely depending on the wood type, age of wood, prepping of wood, and application. Small samples are available at top.
Reviews
Friday, 30 August 2019
The best!!Easy to use one single coat will protect your entire cedar deck
Monday, 03 June 2019
It lasted 5 YEARS on my deck. After stripping, brightening and sanding I applied 1 coat which looks like a natural redwood color. My redwood/cedar deck is 40 years old so it absorbed the stain instantly but looked great for many years. I like only needing to refinish my deck every 5 years. Before switching to Armstrong it was every 2-3 years - Great product!
Friday, 22 March 2019
More reviewsGreat stain!
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhat do I use if I just want to put another coat of the same stain a year later?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyPrep and reapply: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI don't know what you mean by prep. When I prepped the naked wood the solution was powerful and similar to a bleach. I just want to enhance the color that's already there. I don't want to start over.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou always have to prep when reapplying.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhat kind of prep? Does "prep" remind be previous stain? Please explain it like I am 5
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThe link we sent in the first reply is the correct prep product.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyDoes it only clean? Does it remove previous stain?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyDo I have to pressure wash my fence first.? I don’t have a lot of water pressure
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou always have to prep before staining wood. Use this kit and light pressure washing or rinse: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-kit
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHow much stain is needed for a second story deck. 10 x 12. 18 steps to the ground. Pressure treated pine wood.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have a "new" fence, pressure treated pine which was installed Sept 2018, never stained. If I powerwash then apply the semi-transparent stain, will that be sufficient? Also, I have approx 1700 st ft to stain (6ft tall, 142 ft in length, both sides). I calculate that I need around 18 gallons, does that sound right?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyUse a deck cleaner while pressure washing and then a wood brightener. Using a semi-transparent stain is the way to go after. Square footage varies on the color you choose but about 15-20 gallons would be normal for two coats and 1700 sq feet.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI had a professional painter apply my Armstrong-Clark semi-transparent stain . He applied the 2nd coat to the vertical boards underneath the deck on Friday ( finished about 12:30) and it rained Friday night. It was sunny and warm that afternoon. While it looks fine now, I am concerned about possible problems in several months. Thanks
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWould this be a good product for staining the exterior side of a front door? I live in Arizona but the door is under the eaves, behind a security door and only receives speckled light due to trees. If not, what would you recommend? I would Like a bit of color in the stain but not a solid color. Thank you.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWe had a new fence installed about 18 months ago by our contractor. It was kiln-dried Western Red Cedar. He was the one who recommended Armstrong Clark. We picked Sierra Redwood. Stain went on the day after the fence was built. Now that I'm familiar with AC and the instructions, I know that he didn't follow the procedure of waiting and cleaning with RAD before staining.
The staining was definitely splotchy. I'm ready to give it another stain, now that some time has passed. What are the steps to follow when re-staining to get best results? Thank you.-
We will reply to your comment shortlyTo get this to stain evenly it would be best to strip it down and to the bare wood and start over with all the current stain removed: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/restore-a-deck-stripper
BTW, it looks like you used wood filler? Wood filler does not work with exterior stains and outside wood. That is why you have whitish spots in the nail holes.-
We will reply to your comment shortlyThanks for the reply. OK, I will use RAD stripper. I know it says "eco-safe" on the packaging. I will cover the shrubs near the fence but will it be okay if the plants get in the groundwater?
Yes, that is wood filler that my contractor used. I was aghast when I got home and saw all those white spots. I tried light hand sanding but they did not come off. After I use RAD stripper, if I sand with a power tool, do you think they will go away after re-staining?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHi, I have a new pine deck with cedar railings here in Wyoming a mile high in semi-arid climate where the wind sucks the moisture out of everything. The deck is located on the roof of a walk out level of out A frame type home. It's been sitting about year and probably could have been stained months ago due to the extremes it's been exposed to but I decided to wait until fall when the temperatures have dropped at finishes dry here extraordinarily quick. My concern is the clowns that replaced the roof under the deck and then built the deck did not apply the extra white rubber deck coating originally and had to take the deck apart to do so as we had requested . They of course got the the rubber on the pine surface. They made slight attempt to wipe it off but you can still see traces of the rubber on the pine, especially when wet. My wife suggested I sand it off but that's too much work for me to sand the entire deck for uniformity as I'm disabled and I'm guessing just sanding the damaged areas will stick out like a sore thumb. I would like to use the Armstrong semi solid stain to show some of the grain and was hoping multiple coasts in the damaged area to subdue any visual effect of the rubber. I believe the stain should penetrate these areas ok due to the extreme dryness of the wood but you don't know until you try. Any best temperature recommendation for this climate would help and a guess if my strategy has merit would be appreciated. thanks for your input in advance. John
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHello,
Yesterday I stained our approx 5 yr old cedar deck with the transparent natural tone stain. I followed the directions carefully. The end result seems uneven and blotchy. I have attached two photos. I am thinking maybe I should try a second coat?
It may be the wood is somewhat damaged as it has been kind of beat up. The deck has been stripped, lightly sanded, pressure washed and cleaned several times with various products in its relatively short life span due to us trying various stain and sealers on the the market only to find a year later the deck needs to be washed and stained again.
We live in the pacific northwest and get sun beating down on the deck in summer causing it to grey and rain and some snow fall through spring.
Any suggestions?-
We will reply to your comment shortlyYes, apply another light coat. Might want to go a little richer in color as well. Try Amber.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyMy husband corrected me: we have never used an actual stripper product. We have used deck washing products, clorox with water, brighteners and oxalic acid formulations. And it has been pressure washed with a heavy hand (hubby). I think either it needs a second coat or the wood isn't truly absorbing all the stain as it really needed to be completely stripped to remove other failed stain/sealer products instead of just cleaned. What do you think? Try a second coat this year and completely strip it next year and apply the armstrong clark product?
I should mention we also washed and stained our cedar fence with your same product and it looks great.
Thank you
Anna
Oregon
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWas wondering if you would know what semi solid or semi transparent stain would be close to Home Depots Behr California Rustic. I have this on the railing which is fine. I have sanded and removed this paint/stain from the floor as it was peeling. and would like to place the Armstrong Clark on the floor and steps of the Deck.
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We will reply to your comment shortlySorry but no idea. We do have samples for testing: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
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We will reply to your comment shortlyWhere in Indiana can I buy Armstrong wood.stain
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI just stripped and brightened my pressure-treated deck with RAD products. Got rid of many-year-old semi-solid stain. Lots of elbow grease, but came out nice!
I'm trying to decide how much semi-transparent oil based stain (rustic brown) to buy for ~175 sq ft. floor, with rails and a few steps. 2 gallons? 3?
I'd go for a 5-gallon bucket if the shelf life is long enough so I could use leftover next time. What is the shelf life and proper storage method? -
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We will reply to your comment shortlyIt seems all your articles are about decks and I have questions about my new (1 month old) rough sawn western red cedar pergola. (1) Can you help me calculate how many gallons Semi-Trans Cedar I will need for a 12'x12' pergola with 11- 2"x10" rafters, 14-2"x4" purlins and boxed pilars (Pictured attached). (2) only 1 coat is required but you talk about wet on wet for a 2nd coat. What is the extra protection gained with a 2nd coat and does the 2nd oat make the stain darker? (3) Since it is brand new pergola, do I still need to prep the wood with a cleaner and a brightener or can I just power wash & let dry before applying stain?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have a new deck using sienna treated wood. Looking to go darker and hide the knots. Can I use a semi-solid ?
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We will reply to your comment shortlynot yet. See this about new wood. https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/new-decking-and-armstrong-clark-stain
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We will reply to your comment shortlyThe posts and rails seemed to have come out better than deck. As it dried it appears I could use a 2nd coat on the deck floor. How long should I wait, and what prep will be needed? I thoroughly cleaned and stripped deck using the stripper and brightener and hand sanded as the pressure washer raised the grain.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyYou should be able to do a light coat now. Make sure to not over apply.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have just a few post caps to do and ran out of stain, Will a sample be exact same as the gallons I had? I have mahogany wood and used your mahogany stain.
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have a 15 year old Pau Lupe deck. Full sun in souther California. What do you recommend as a stain?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyUse one of the hardwood colors: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/wood-and-decking-stains/hardwood-and-ipe-stain
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We will reply to your comment shortlyHi,
I built a deck with rough sawn cedar and used Thompson Water Sealant Cedar on it and it pulled REALLY orange. I plan to strip it and use something different. The color I would like to match is Miniwax Red Oak, but that's pulling black on the rough sawn wood. Which of your products do you recommend?-
We will reply to your comment shortlyColors will vary based on wood type and age and we are not familiar with interior Minwax stain colors. Best try some samples for testing: https://www.armstrongclarkstain.com/samples
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI have a cedar deck..... can I use the “natural tone “ transparent or “natural oak” semi-transparent stains or should I stay with a “cedar” stain?
Also, do the semi-transparent stains need to be removed before re-coating?
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We will reply to your comment shortlyI previously painted my deck with Sherwin Williams Deckscapes advanced waterborne formula exterior deck stain. Can I use your Armstrong Clark semi solid stain over it?